C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

overheating lt1

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Old Sep 11, 2023 | 09:48 AM
  #21  
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Two things I recommend looking at, without reading the whole thread. Radiator caps need to be changed periodically, as the spring and gasket to go over time. The overflow bucket near headlight in bumper has a gasket on the the cap. Change it or buy a new one.
And, I am telling you, besides a dirty radiator, fans go bad. You need to verify they are both working.
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Old Sep 12, 2023 | 12:19 PM
  #22  
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yea both fans are working, i havent thought about the caps but ive been too busy with school and work to have more than 3 hours on the car. it also has a parasitic draw and i keep leaving the battery connected :/. today im going to fill up the coolant and see if it still over heats.
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Old Sep 13, 2023 | 12:22 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by c4bomb
yea both fans are working, i havent thought about the caps but ive been too busy with school and work to have more than 3 hours on the car. it also has a parasitic draw and i keep leaving the battery connected :/. today im going to fill up the coolant and see if it still over heats.
Dont forget to burp the system. This ensures you are full of coolant. LT1s have a little bleed off valve on the thermostat housing.
Or, you can jack front end up a little, get engine hot with cap off and rev engine to about 1500 rpms to help burp air out.
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Old Sep 22, 2023 | 12:36 PM
  #24  
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yea i was burping it yesterday but it started raining so i had to stop. A lot of air in the system which i believe was the root cause but i did clean out the radiator aswell.
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Old Sep 23, 2023 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by '78CorvetteS.A.
I feel doing a cooling system pressure test would be a good idea, just to make sure you don't have a bad head gasket(s) or cracked head(s)! 260°F is too hot IMHO, you won't get away with that too many times. Hope you get it figured out👍
This above is correct... I feel it should be the first step, or you're chasing your tail, and guessing, trying all sorts of repairs without knowing the issue. Harbor Freight and Amazon both have cheap system check kits, you can check the system under pressure with the hand pump, and you can also check the cap with it to see what pressure it opens under.

If you've had a 260 degree incident, and now it's frequently over heating, unfortunately it's likely that the system pressure check will fail meaning head gasket... if you're lucky it's a radiator issue or a hose, heater system, etc.. I get that not everyone wants to buy a $50 test kit unless they have to, but that's the best way to tell. Other signs may be coolant in the oil system (foaming) or coolant n the combustion chamber (white smoke).

Water boils at 212 degrees at standard atmospheric pressure, and about 260 degrees at 21 PSIG so it needs to hold pressure or it boils over. The water pump head pressure is typically higher than cap rated pressure, but steam pockets form in the head and the steam does not cool the engine, starts the overheating chain of events.
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Old Sep 23, 2023 | 05:47 PM
  #26  
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DO the simple maintenance first. Check your radiator cap. Or just go buy a new one. It keeps the pressure in the system.. Trust me, it is a consumable part.
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Old Sep 28, 2023 | 06:28 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by arbee
As I am always open to learning new CORRECT information, I would be interested in knowing how a dirty air filter would cause an engine to overheat. Keeping a clean air filter is a given but changing it would stop overheating???? That's a new one.
After a short drive (less than 20 miles) my car hood hot to the touch. Extremely hot. The rail covers were almost untouchable after a short drive. Engine temp on gauge was always well below 220. Did a coolant flush and problem still there. Was looking for leaves stuck in front of the radiator, nothing.. After looking at the filter I though it's been a minute what the hell couldn't hurt. I changed it out and the problem instantly went away. Serious the plastic emblems on my rail covers were starting to move it got that hot in there. Not anymore. Was just making a simple suggestion worth a look.

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Old Sep 30, 2023 | 09:22 PM
  #28  
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Default good news with bad news

Good news is that after a flush and thermostat the car stays cold. but now it shuts off while driving with no other symptoms' and it starts right up after. Im going to change the radiator cap since it looks very old and i dont want any problems with it. Still thinking of changing radiator, it is the factory one.

Last edited by c4bomb; Sep 30, 2023 at 09:24 PM. Reason: to add
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Old Sep 30, 2023 | 09:25 PM
  #29  
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what filter are you talking about
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Old Sep 30, 2023 | 10:57 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by c4bomb
Good news is that after a flush and thermostat the car stays cold. but now it shuts off while driving with no other symptoms' and it starts right up after. Im going to change the radiator cap since it looks very old and i dont want any problems with it. Still thinking of changing radiator, it is the factory one.
If your radiator had the proper type of fluid in it, why change it unless its leaking? Nothing wrong with the C4 design. Fan settings cause it to run hot , as far as when it is new. Over time, yes you can get some dirt and crap in the fins of the radiator to cause it to run a bit hotter. Thats called maintenance. Clean it every few years of driving. Not fun, but doable.
As far as shutting down, I bet you go the Opti wet after the thermostat was removed, possibly, and this may be why it shuts down.. There are several hundred write ups on how to dry an optispark, before actually removing it. If it has too much water in it.
FYI, whenever removing an LT1/4 thermostat, put towels all around the housing to keep water from dripping down on Opti. And always do it cold.
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Old Oct 3, 2023 | 12:31 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by AmoriFati
If your radiator had the proper type of fluid in it, why change it unless its leaking? Nothing wrong with the C4 design. Fan settings cause it to run hot , as far as when it is new. Over time, yes you can get some dirt and crap in the fins of the radiator to cause it to run a bit hotter. Thats called maintenance. Clean it every few years of driving. Not fun, but doable.
As far as shutting down, I bet you go the Opti wet after the thermostat was removed, possibly, and this may be why it shuts down.. There are several hundred write ups on how to dry an optispark, before actually removing it. If it has too much water in it.
FYI, whenever removing an LT1/4 thermostat, put towels all around the housing to keep water from dripping down on Opti. And always do it cold.
i put shop rags around it and changed out the rags every time it got wet. read from a different forum that the DeWitt radiator actually helps the car run a bit colder. Im going to run the car hard and even track it time to time.
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Old Oct 3, 2023 | 01:15 PM
  #32  
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A thicker radiator like BeCool and Dewitt do make it technically run cooler as the more water has time in the radiator to cool. Thermostat and fan settings really a make it run cooler.
Regardless a new radiator or a cleaned old one are better than a dirty old one.
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Old Oct 3, 2023 | 04:34 PM
  #33  
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I’ll admit I did not read the entire thread. But wanted to mention one experience I had which was an intermittent working fan. Hard recognize!

I ran a bit warm with ac on and it wasn’t until I went to reflash the pcm with a new tune that I noticed my primary fan didn’t cycle. Gave it a tap and it worked. Tried it again and it didn’t. Just something to keep in mind. Intermittent problems suck.
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Old Oct 6, 2023 | 11:00 PM
  #34  
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Default thank you guys

My corvette no longer overheats. I have driven the car a few times and it stays im temp and also stays on.
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