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I'm going to install my intake manifold in the AM.
Any thought/advise on what to look out for do etc?
Even if someone had the time to kind of walk/talk me through it would be great!
I'm putting it back on after having had the engine rebuilt.
Also I did a search and found one thread on gasket repacement on the c3 section and wonder if there was any difference?
Thanks so much! :thumbs:
Of the intake components the intake base is perhaps the most critical.
Chase the bolt holes and the bolt threads with a tap & die set, clean the front and rear lands on the block with carb cleaner & laquer thinner.
Use a FelPro intake gasket set along with some black RTV. Apply a thin layer of RTV around the water holes in the heads and set the gaskets into place. Apply a similar layer around the water passages on the gasket surface, apply the recommended thickness of RTV onto the front and rear engine lands and immediately carefully set the intake base onto the gaskets...DO NOT MOVE THE BASE ONCE SET ONTO THE GASKETS...as this will likely cause leaks. Here I like to make a dry run of placing the base into position before laying down any RTV, just to assure I can drop it into position with all bolt holes lined up.
Then snug the intake bolts in the prescribed pattern; then torque them all to the factory spec. using three steps in the proper sequence. Let the base sit for 24hrs and retorque the bolts.
You may want to get some of the RTV called "The Right Stuff" It works like a champ! Never hardens and will not crack over time. Turns to a nice rubber.
My intake must be different than your's. The bolt holes apear to be smothe(sorry sp). Wouldn't you use a tap set on something that has threads?
Could I use a small brush on a 3/8" drill to clean it out?
Thanks again for your response!
Should be alright on the sensors. I never had a problem with it.
What the heck are you talking about smooth hole on?
I think they meant to chase the threads in the heads to make sure you get a good torque on the manifold bolts. I did not go back and read to make sure. If your heads are stripped out and are smooth, you have MAJOR problems, but I'm sure its probably just a miscommunication. :eek:
No, just the intake manifold. As I said in the first part of this thread, I just got my ENGINE(complete including the heads) back from having it rebuilt. The heads look pretty clean.
Should I go back behind the rebuilder and chase the threads?
No big deal. I'm new to this. It just sounds redundant.
I looked(I even had my glasses on) at the holes on the manifold and they appeared smooth.
Are they not suppost to be that way?
Thanks again
If he used a sealant on the intake bolts on the rebuild, it would be avery good idea to run a tap down the intake bolt holes in the head. You can pick up a tap and dye set at Sears for about $70 and do it yourself. That way you have a new set of tools instead of paying a mechanic and have nothing to show for it. Be sure to use a vacuum on the bolt holes after chasing the threads to remove any debris.
I think he is saying that the heads are new and have never had an intake bolted to them. Is this true? If thats the case don't worry about it. Just bolt it on. Follow the right torque sequence and use good quality gaskets. I have done this sooo many times now and never had a leak but you need to take your time.
Sorry. Hopefully I'm not running this into the dirt. I'm just searching for better understanding.
I've done I think, everything other than going through the bolt holes on the intake manifold. In the morning I'm going to take a closer look.
No the intake is not new... it's the original. I think part of the challenge is that before the engine went out the manifold gasket went and had to be replaced. I just want do it right the first time.
One of the most common problems with my year car I found out is a blown manifold gasket. I just don't want the gasket going out as soon as I finally get the car on the road.
Thanks Phobos84, you are right. I JUST NEED TO DO IT.
Thanks again for your help and understanding. :thumbs:
You don't need to worry about the bolt holes in the intake manifold. What people are saying is to look at the bolt holes in the heads that the intake will be bolted to. If there is debris on the threads then you will need to clear it out with a thread tap. It is always recomended to use a tap on the holes but I only do it if it looks like there is a lot of crud in the bolt hole. I know I know you guys are probably going to yell at me for not doing it. Sometimes I forget untill I get about 1000 miles on it and think "oh crap" I fogot to run a tap on that.
Cool. Thanks. I was talking with a friend last night about the smooth holes.
He said to "put" a small grit piece of sand paper on a drill bit, and use this to clean out these holes.
Well, I'm going to see if I can finish this thing up today and go downtown and buy some of the right stuff. It sounds like everyone has come to the conclusion that it's sensor safe.
Thanks again for the help! :thumbs:
Yea I have a torque wrench, thank you very much.
Could I also use the right stuff for the bolts instead of the permatex 2?
KYVette90, what a great looking engine! How did you do your valve covers?
I have a friend beadblasting them right now and plan on clear coating them.
Is this what you did? :thumbs: :cool: