When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
95 Steering pump replace: Need tips and recommendations
Going to replace the steering pump in my 95 LT-1. I've read several posts and watched several C4 pump replacement videos but the reservoir seems to be on the driver's side. My reservoir is on the passenger side. Did Chevy move the pump for 95?
Other than a pulley removal tool do I need anything special? Crows feet, sizes, etc.? Any other tips or suggestions?
What brand pump should I look for? The car is a daily driver taken to the track once a year for HPDE day.
Going to replace the steering pump in my 95 LT-1. I've read several posts and watched several C4 pump replacement videos but the reservoir seems to be on the driver's side. My reservoir is on the passenger side. Did Chevy move the pump for 95?
Other than a pulley removal tool do I need anything special? Crows feet, sizes, etc.? Any other tips or suggestions?
What brand pump should I look for? The car is a daily driver taken to the track once a year for HPDE day.
All LT1 cars, the reservoir is on the passenger side. All L98 cars are on the driver side.
You will need the pulley pulled/installer kit. It will be preferred to have line wrenches for the pressure line. Ideally you will also upgrade your pressure line as well.
Why are you replacing the pump? What issues do you have? You might price a new Saginaw from TurnOne and I believe they offer one. Do they offer a reman? I've no idea but I'd be inclined to buy from them for potential warranty maybe and just general support.
Why are you replacing the pump? What issues do you have? You might price a new Saginaw from TurnOne and I believe they offer one. Do they offer a reman? I've no idea but I'd be inclined to buy from them for potential warranty maybe and just general support.
The pump is noisy, groaning, louder and faster with RPMs. Takes 15-20 seconds to loosen up, especially on cold mornings. It was leaking and low on fluid. Fluid is full now and I keep track of it. Steering is still even and smooth once warmed up. No dead spaces, so I think the rack is fine. Only 58,000 miles. Belt is only a year old.
I believe that if you haven't changed the fluid 'ever' you do a service with GM 'Cold Climate' Power Steering Fluid. What's actually leaking? You mentioned 'was' ... I don't know that I'd rush to a pump quite yet. Now if you've serviced it in the past then maybe it actually is time for a pump.Regardless the GM Cold Climate would be a wise move.
I flushed the system using the GM cold climate fluid and let it sit overnight to get cold again. Still making noise, but first turn of the wheel was not as stiff as before.
I'll drive it for a while and see what happens, just in case I got some air in the syatem.
I flushed the system using the GM cold climate fluid and let it sit overnight to get cold again. Still making noise, but first turn of the wheel was not as stiff as before.
I'll drive it for a while and see what happens, just in case I got some air in the system.
Drive it and see if it improves. How much fluid did you use for the flush? If you notice substantial improvement, in the past a second has been done. You mentioned 'was leaking' previously - you never mentioned what that leak was, if it still is or what corrected it.
Long drive yesterday in 50 degree weather. Still groaned but not as badly. 35 degrees today and although it has improved it still groans. Steering effort is same as before the problem started and the hard spot that occurred on first wheel turn after cold start is gone, so that is good.
This is my DD so I will need to address it, just not sure i want to DIY this time. If I had a leak in the high pressure line and need to replace it that's harder to get at if I understand correctly. Local shop w do the pump job for about $8-900. Not a bad expense for a 58,000 mile car and no payments.
Just in case, i know the reservoir moved to the passenger side in 95. Is the pump still in the same location as earlier C4s?
What's a 'long drive'? If you had noticeable improvement I'd do more driving and maybe consider a second fluid change. How did you do the fluid change? Remove a line from the cooler or just change the reservoir fluid with a suction device and repeat several times. Spring ain't that far off for a DIY. How many miles a week do you generally drive?
Long drive was 20 minutes on curvy roads. I pulled the reservoir line, engine off, front jacked up, sucked fluid from reservoir, refilled, turned wheel several time to drain old fluid into bottle, continued filling reservoir, and flushing until looked like I was getting new fluid.
I put 10-11,000 miles per year on it. I'll try flushing it again but cannot get to it until next weekend.
Since you do track the car, I'd definitely have one done by turn one. DRM also sells a line kit to replace the pressure line with a braided stainless setup for $100. They are known to crack and leak at the flare off the pump. I also put Gibbs power steering fluid in any track car I work on. It holds up better with the heat.
It's not too hard a job, pretty easy with the right tools, maybe a hour. $8-900 is pretty high considering they will probably throw a Cardone pos or something else in.
Since you do track the car, I'd definitely have one done by turn one. DRM also sells a line kit to replace the pressure line with a braided stainless setup for $100. They are known to crack and leak at the flare off the pump. I also put Gibbs power steering fluid in any track car I work on. It holds up better with the heat.
It's not too hard a job, pretty easy with the right tools, maybe a hour. $8-900 is pretty high considering they will probably throw a Cardone pos or something else in.
Please listen to this post. This man knows what he is talking about. Hit all the main points with a short post. Dan
Going to replace the steering pump in my 95 LT-1. I've read several posts and watched several C4 pump replacement videos but the reservoir seems to be on the driver's side. My reservoir is on the passenger side. ... Any other tips or suggestions? ...
Didn't see it mentioned in the great feedback, but "a LT1 pump is reverse rotation, there is a one way metering valve the comes into play as well.". Just FYI in case you didn't hit/find that piece of info.
I believe you can rent a puller from Autozone. Be careful replacing the pressure line. I used a crow foot, and when tightening it went into the boot of the power rack. And right after, I've had a leak from that boot ever since. Have had to keep an anti-leak additive in it to keep from getting a puddle under the car.
Pump is still leaking so next week I am going to replace it. I'll use Gibbs fluid and want to replace the pressure line with a DRM stainless line as recommended above. But, I cannot find DRM online as a parts supplier. What should I be looking for?
Please see the photo below. That's the pump I'm pointing to with the pencil, correct? Doesn't look like that tough a job after all, especially if I move the alternator and maybe the AC. I know I'll need to borrow a pulley remover. Any other tips on wrench sizes, crow's feet, etc.? Do I remove the pulley in the car, or after it is on the bench?
The pump isn’t a hard job. That is it which you point to. And for 800+ you are far better off doing this job yourself and saving a ton. I believe the DRM line runs THROUGH the serpentine belt. So in other words to change the belt you have to pull that line. It’s a big trade off you have to consider. Someone correct me if I’m wrong but this is what I recall from looking at this a few years back. I went to replace my high pressure hose a few years ago with an aftermarket one and it refused to align/fit. The 30 year old hose went back in and still works to this day without issue.