The SAUJP bin is a great piece of software for tuners running 7730 ECM's. Has some nice additional features in it.

Only thing is that for a Corvette, at a minimum you need to transplant your spark latency vs time correction table from your bin into the SAUJP bin, since that SAUJP table reflects the Camaro small-cap HEI module being used. You need the table from your Vette bin since it reflects the large-cap module. And these tables are for GM modules only.

If you have an aftermarket HEI module, that table likely needs to be revised as it can cause the spark timing to be off by 5 deg or more (as I found out with my Pertronix module). There's a process for doing that, but for someone in your situation, I'd advocate to use a factory GM module at this point to keep things simple and minimize variables.

 

the ecm for my car is 1227727, and 7730 is for F series. I don’t know if this can be added an extra wire but logging in open loop makes more sense.

 

I believe the circuit board is the same inside. I've added things to my ECM that are present on the 7727 like control of the secondary fan.

 

I've managed to install an AFR WB sensor and an DIY EGT . But the EGT is at a few inches from the exhaust ports below the manifold, so it will show a lower temperature, it shows an average between odd cylinders (DS), and will react slower. I've stared the car with the TB blades opened more buit it still runs very hard at idle and when it warms up it gets worse. However, I've measured the spark advance and it was still 6degrees with the EST cable connected. I didn't have time for a more detailed inspection so I'll leave it for tomorrow. If the spark stays at 6, that's definitely too low. It could be that the timing lamp we used initially, was bad. I have a spare new distributor in case this one has a problem but the problem iould also be from the ECM. For example the radiator fans don't start when the ECM initiates the command so maybe the signal isn't generated. The grounds on the transmission were tight., I'll check fuses then ground the ECM cables that go the the relay pair. I already have two switches that turn on the fans, I'm not sure but most likely that's what they do.

PS UPDATE:
I've checked the 383 specs and aparently it works with 16degree initial timing (no vacuum). It seems to idle better with more advance. I set it up 18degrees base and 36 maximum in the spark advance matrix, should be close to how they work with the vacumatic distributor. After that EGT measurements were 360F idle and 850F during several pulls from 2000-4000 70%TPS. Oil temp gauge reads increases to max scale but the Coolant and dipstick are cold,also the ECM data shows oil was cool 80-90C. The AFR didn't work during the tests possibly because the proximitu of spark cables, moving it away from them made it work again. At idle and neutral rev up AFR read around 12:1. The car idles ok but only with the PCV hose off ( seems to need more air). I've tried to adjust the blades but the screw seems to be factory calibrated and can;t be turned I'll try to cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver to make it turn or I can place a long nut for a a little bit more air. Before that I think I should reset the IAC. Also, no error codes, (SES stays off except before the startup of the engine), so EST should be ok. During the pulls on the road it felt smooth.

 

I needed to move the car a few hundred yards and the engine still struggled to idle. It starts fine then after it warms up it still struggles to maintain idle. I’ve also dis the IAC reset sequence and no change. When I pull the pcv line off and starts to pull air through it. the idle goes up then settles down shortly after. It can idle like that but still rough.Currently I have the NB O2 on the left and AFR WB on the right but before that I had two different NB sensor on each bank. The one on the right had black soot but the one on the left that is used by the ECM has no trace of soot. Also the AFR WB indicates 10-12:1 at idle. so I believe that would mean 16-40% more fuel than needed. Tomorrow I’ll do a new datalog and maybe check compression on right bank. One possibility could be spark or mechanical problems.





this looks cleaner

Another possibility could be fake injectors because there are fake Bosch injectors on the market. These were bought from ebay.

 

Hmmm.... if you didn't get actual genuine Bosch injectors, then there's no way to know what you have. And the voltage offsets probably don't even apply.

Ebay has TONS of knock off injectors. Stay away from those like the plague.

 

the injectors casting quality, aspect and plastic looks good. They cost me an equivalent of $385 from Germany so could be genuine or at least better quality.
Today I did some more work. Fuel pressure with the engine off stays at 40psi, doesn’t drop.
I’ve pulled no4 spark plug (the bank where the o2 was full of soot). took me an hour for a single s/p. I’ve done this before but anyway it was full of fine carbon. the gap isn’t quite right at .85mm. I need about 1mm as per engine data sheet. I’ll get the right plugs later. Then I put a tiny threaded steel tube on the TB adjustment stud and by only like 1mm offset now it can idle but sine wave pattern rpm . This is also with adjustment to the VE. basically I put around 100 for the BLM in the VE Excel calculator and reduced the VE values by about 10counts. I’ll check the datalog later to see the IAC. However with this reduction the o2 NB runs now rich all the time and didn’t activate Close Loop anymore at over 800mV. The AFR on the right bank was at about 12.
I’ve checked the spark advance. the EGT goes up quickly when the spark is too retarded.
I don’t understand why such a big difference in VE. Then with previous bin file that had higher Ve values the NB o2 was able to go close loop. The BPW are also lower now.
I’m planning to buy a 30lbs set now but till then I want to see if these can be tuned to run decently..and a backup computer might help, this one could have some hidden issues.
Next, I think I’ll set a higher flow rate for the injectors rather than reducing the VE numbers.

Another thing I’ve tested on the no4 cylinder was the compression and I got 140psi -cold engine. seems low. the ratio is 9.7:1.

 

Do you actually see the p/n 0 280 155 968 molded into the injector body?

 

yes, it has the p/n and other markings

 

By interpreting the behaviour it seems the VE of the engine is getting worse. Before the break in the rings may not seal properly but the difference looks too large. If it’s a ring seal problem the blow by should be significantly increased. Didn’t check that yet.
here is some information I’ve found dor breaking in: “

• Get the engine started on Stock Injectors if possible, Stock Map Sensor and Stock ECU (or stock Chip in your chipped ECU). No matter what the engine, 9 out of 10 times this will start the car, run it fine and you won't have to worry about over fueling the engine, which would wash down the cylinder wall. Something you do not want to do on a fresh engine.”

I believe it’s likely this happened to my engine: washed walls then complete wear down of rings 🤦🏻‍♂️
some level of blow by is certain because the oil already has a lot of soot in it, like half way between black and normal colour. exhaust smoke is a bit black. The blow by would further aggravate the VE so it seems it’s best to break in with the valvecover vent disconnected to monitor blowby and prevent it from interfering with the fuel mixture


comparing this log with the first log where the O2 Nb was good at 2000-2500rpm the latter uses the same bpw, would mean doesn’t use more fuel

also I have no idle data because it wasn’t working in the first log. it is a possibility that the more aggressive cam and lift has lower volumetric efficiency at idle compared to the stock l98. so I would lower the low rpm range further

 

My apologies if this has already been addressed ... I did not read through every post in this thread ... Have you confirmed that the harmonic balancer markings are accurate ? That the outer ring has not moved/slipped ?

 

Maybe post your xdl log file.

 

the balancer is new, installed by factory so should be ok. EGT is low. 170-200C at idle/neutral. ai have the spark adv. around 25 for idle target 1000rpm (operating temperature) and minimum is 18deg. the base is also 18. with the est connected it jumps around 20deg.

 

IAC counts are near zero, I gave it too much air from the TB blade screw


this is the lower table and 18 degrees base (couldn't set it exacly right it is like +-2deg because of scale). Maybe I should set base to 16 and minimum spark advance to 20 to avoid unburned fuel? The factory spec is 34 deg max but l98 used 41 max, with knock sensor I assume I could use the stock table with 20deg. lower limit and 38max


Looks like where I set the idle the spark is significantly retarded.

the 2nd file spark may not indicate the real spark advance.

 

What does your Closed Throttle Spark Advance table look like? Maybe you could share your bin file aswell.

 

I’ll post it tomorrow.
Merry Christmas, everyone!

PS
TPI383_V1.1.BIN

I've found the LT1 ve/spark adv. tables and there is less VE at lower rpm/load even than my modified tables that are below stock. I have large tube runners that may flow between the lt1 intake and stock intake at low rpm/load (up to 2500rpm). but the aggressive camshaft I believe reduces the airspeed even more.

 

Based on the log files your alternator is not charging? It's showing only 10.6 volts in Battery Voltage when engine is running. I would fix that in the first place. Low voltage may cause issues with injectors and ignition...

 

Thank you. it’s was with the alternator hooked off because I have a module that controls it that didn’t perform well and charged the battery to 15v. the module also shows me AFR. I modified the VE tables based on the AFR wb that was reading rich, with the stock one reading rich as well, up to the point where the WB (right bank) was showing lean 14-16 and the NB (connected to the ECM) came down a little but still rich at .6- .8 v. Later I discovered there was a misunderstanding about AIR system. The check valves don’t allow air to escape but they can suck air so apparently there is a T air connector and the mid tube of the T was left open and it sucks air through it. when I close it the AFR shoots up to 17: 1 and idle stabilizes. But it seems there is more than just letting air in the right bank otherwise it wouldn’t affect the idle

I have 3 log files. after the first log I've multiplied the VE tables (all values) by 0.9 . The WB went to 16-17:1 but the NB was still on the rich side. Not sure how relevant are these considering the AiR tube was open.
Also, I've checked the blowby but with the PCV on, I'll disconnect it to see what happens because with it on the crankcase stays under vacuum, anyway if there is something present it's inferior to 'vacumm' rate through through the PCV

 

In the voltage range you're operating in, the injector voltage offset table is off by around .300 ms. Then your Low PW compensation table adds another roughly .06 ms.

I would do what Paccanini recommends and get your alternator hooked up again. That'll be one less variable in all of this.

Also, I don't think you can necessarily compare the VE tables between yours and the LT1. Probably a lot of other things in the tune contribute to what the VE table needs to be to get to 128/128 INT/BLM on each particular car.

Have you already checked the timing at the balancer with a timing light?

 

thank you
the new logs are at 12V. when I installed the distributor the mark on the distributor was at TDC that was checked with an inspection camera. I belive It should be ok.

My l98 ran 1.63ms BPW at idle. I don't understand why with reduced VE table by 30% and injector flow set to 42, the computer comands the same BPW for these injectors. it should be about .85ms. The target afr is the same, IAC similar. The MAP for l98 was 35kPa, and for the 383 it;s 65kPa - this I understand means it needs the TB opened more to get the same air which is normal.

PS . Looks like the mechanics that did the swap messed up the air injection system hoses. 😳 The cat converter is off the car so they didn’t install the main cat line/hose and checker valve. btw the hose was blocked by the previous owner for some reason. the they let the left lead from the PEDES intended for the left bank open to atmospheric air and connected the PEDES cat outlet to the left bank basically the right bank was sucking air and the left received air from the pump intended for the main cat.