I do have a 1993 FSM and intend to follow procedure, however I want any tips I can get:

heres some questions

1. Hood / i imagine it should be removed, no advantage to it being in place. Or can it be left in place?

2. balancer and hub.
if i remove the power steering rack, do I have to pull these first for the engine to come out ?
The zf6 trans, c beam and driveshaft will be removed

3. heads and intake - any reason id need to take these off before the removal?

on the flip-side: can i install the new engine with the heads/intake on it?

any other tips are appreciated

my block is going to be stud’d and heads are more difficult to install on studs if the short block is in the car.

 

I removed my LT4 (same as LT1) from my ‘96 with the hood on. I reinstalled the motor as a complete assembly, also did not remove balancer or steering rack. Just follow the FSM

 

Absolutely do not remove the hood without scribing and drilling two alignment holes in each hinge. Recently helped a friend put the hood back on his 86 that he failed to mark before removal, complete nitemare!
1. Pull the engine and transmission separately, it's much easier this way.
2. Just pull the entire radiator and condenser box out of the car, gives you a lot of room to work, allows light in.
3. Drop the entire cat back exhaust before trying to remove the engine or transmission.
4. Put the car on jackstands or ramps unless you have a hoist, I used two sets of harbor freight ramps. Big time saver.
5. Take your time removing wiring and any hoses, don't hesitate to label things with white 2" masking tape, take lots of pictures of things that have a lot of bolts and small brackets, especially the front accessory drive pieces.
Just some basic things, but after pulling/installing the engine in my 91 once, and the transmission twice. These are the things that jump out, and a few I wish I had done. Hope this helps you. Stay safe my friend.

 

The heads will be impossible to install with studs on the short block while in the car, Aaron pointed that out to me, and suggested I buy arp bolts, unless it was going to be using a power adder. Fact is even with bolts head removal is a nitemare, if I ever have to pull the heads I would probably just pull the entire engine out. Consider the HVAC evaporator box, the windshield wiper motor.
You do not need to touch the steering rack, or pump, on my 91 I simply unhooked both lines and reservaur from the rack and pulled them off the car prior to removing it, this helps when you get ready to shove the motor mount bolts back in.

 

I have removed / swapped heads with the engine in the car. I remember that bc I was originally going to do studs(had a used pair), but had so much trouble that I ended up buying ARP bolts and had no trouble getting the heads on with engine in the car.

My balancer is an ATI 6+8, so its super wide. I had to removed power steering rack to get it on (With engine in the car). Maybe I will get lucky , with the transmission out, and be able to get it out/in.

 

If You have an aftermarket Oil Pan remove it before hand. Same for install.

 

The most important thing: have about 20 zip lock bags for parts. Label the bags with a Sharpie. "exhaust hanger bolts", "starter", "bell housing", etc, etc. No matter how small, mundane, or repetitive, give those parts their own bag. Your memory will thank you.
Leave the hood on and pull the engine from the side. Depending on your engine hoist, you may need to take the front wheel off so the hoist legs can get under. An engine hoist leveler helps a lot taking the engine out and putting it back in. It lets you angle the engine nose up and down.
The balancer and hub stay on while removing the engine. The steering rack stays in place. You do/do need to disconnect the power steering reservoir and lines attached to the front of the engine.
Yes, the exhaust + cats, c beam, driveshaft, and trans need to come out first. The radiator stays in. Intake stays on. Exhaust manifolds stay on.
What to do with the flexible fuel lines after you disconnect them from the intake? I left mine hanging and 5 gallons of gas leaked out over 2 days. I took the gas cap off to relieve the pressure.
The AC compressor can stay connected to it's lines. Just roll it to the side and rest it on the suspension. You'll also be taking off the left wheel well side panel.
Prepare yourself for a lot of up and down getting under the car. It will be a marathon, not a sprint.

 

I installed the heads after it was in the car with head studs. Just set the heads onto the block, then thread in the studs.