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1. Will engine go in wth headers attached or will I have to install them from the bottom?
I never tried to pull my engine with headers attached (or at all...I was lucky to fall into a well-built C4 from the PO). Would think the engine will go in with them attached, but I'm not sure. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in. I have installed Hooker 2151s from underneath. It wasn't terrible job except the rearmost bolt on the passenger side is hard as hell to get started and to thread all the way in. The heater box on the firewall is a serious impediment. So if you can do them on the stand, it would be a lot nicer.
2. Wll the pan with the kick out as show work or or is there some interferance issue I need to be concerned with?
It will probably fit. I don't know exactly what pan that is, but the only concern would be if the kickout goes too far foward and hits the subframe crossmember. The pan I used was a Kevko 1091-RR, and it fit fine. As you can see, it had kickouts on both sides, but they were tapered front and rear when looking from above. So it's possible there would be a tight squeeze with yours. I do predict you may not be able to pull the pan without pulling the engine out of the car, just because access to a couple forward bolts on each side may be impossible without the taper. But of course hopefully that's never an issue!
Do yourself a favor and do away with the AC Evaporator its not that hard to do and that aft header bolt won't be any big deal. To remove the lower Right Control Arm You need to remove the 45 deg Braces that join the frame to the front Crossmember. But with the right Header installed You can't get to the upper Bolt. Bore a hole in the Brace now before you install the Header.
Big week ahead. Transmission is ready to come out tonight and new engine in by week's end so long as the bell housing registration is with in 5 thou but I'm shooting for 2.5 thou. The intake needed lots of thread repair, spent a 1./2 a day on that alone.
Last edited by icsamerica; Jan 15, 2024 at 07:25 PM.
I had some health setbacks and I'm way behind on the devopement of this car but this year the car felt great out there and it was 2/3's of a rain out so I only got in 2 session all weekend and still improved.
Last year at Limerock was a total rain out. I actualy spun in the rain 80 MPH or so and slid on the grass, after that I was done.
This year I managed a low 1:08, a personal best at LRP for me so a small personal victory there. I'm still way way off my goal of 59.9
Sadly my Go-pro had a SD car error so no video, only memories.
Here are some of the upgrades in the works... If anyone has and input on this I'd appreciate soem suggestions.
1. Convert to speed density. (7730) and 1991 style radiator and air intake setup. I'm pulling 3 inches of vaccuum at WOT with a descreened MAF
2. Northstar DIS conversion
3. 230 / 236 on a 110 LSA mechanical roller.
4. Re-inforcing the front subframe. She's jiggly out there.
5. Oil cooler, I saw oil temps of 242 degrees on a cool day.
Per the 928 vid it looks like you know what you're doing out there. Would be cool to see the 928 on track. Having tried to capture track vid for a long time any bumps mess up older cameras. Even with sd cards! Try an app with your phone iphone whichever, something like track addict.
The SR engine engine you have is cool! I had a SR combo for awhile they really look nice but it was a little much to work on often in fastener amount. I spent a lot of time porting that one.
A holley hp is a nice easy ecu but it's somewhat costly. CNP and no distributor is nice on it. Crank trigger or holley's dual sync diz.
I personally didn't find an issue with a lot of chassis noodle but I wonder if your suspension is strong enough. I had Z51 springs on and a lot of weight out of the car. Doug Rippie motor sports used to have some revalved shocks.
