Update! And questions?
I got and ‘84 Vette that had been sitting about 8+ years. I went through fuel system replacing sending unit, pump, and filter. Changed the oil/ filter. I got new spark plugs/ wires, battery, air filter. Had issues getting injectors to spray so installed new injections with seals. I also got a new crossover fuel line with gauge from XFire Performance LLC and it is amazing. Easy install and love access to a in-line gauge. Got in to start and fired up no problem stumbled a little bit at first I figured to be expected getting everything lubed up and fuel into engine. As soon as it fired up a new I liked this car. It was smoking around exhaust Downpipes but let it burn all that dust and grime off and it stopped smoking.
I have some questions regarding part replacement in the future. Now that I got everything to get it running I’m at a dead end with some stuff to look into replacing on an old car that’s been sitting for a While. I am going to replace wheels and Look into brakes.but Especially more so on the engine/ performance side of things. I’ve looked into replacing the oil pressure unit below the distributor. Are there some things I should go ahead and look into replacing to lessen future problem that might come up.
Any comments are appreciated thanks
First up, and I can't stress this enough on our 40 year old 84s, replace every single vacuum line. All of them.
Don't touch the hard formed vac lines feeding the EGR, HVAC, or even any of the the air pump stuff. Just let it be until it actually causes an issue. You won't gain any performance there anyways and will cause lean/rich codes and issues if you eliminate them or go messing with stuff. The only exception there would be to pull the EGR off to clean up carbon inside the intake and ensure it still strokes smoothly.
If you want performance out of a crossfire, expand your pockets and then be willing to empty them.
You'll need new heads that flow worth a crap, the stock heads used were termed throw away by engine rebuilders, they are prone to cracking, flow horribly, and cost more to rebuild than a cheap set of new heads.
You'll want a Renegade intake if you can find one or wait for the next production run, and you'll want headers.
A "free flowing" cat will then be necessary once the engine is able to breathe.
A K&N air filter is a godsend simply due to the hassle of trying to find our funky shaped filter. 20 years ago I could actually find them @ almost every Walmart and popular car parts stores. I went K&N around 2002 and haven't really seriously looked for the filters since but last time I did out of curiosity no one had them on the shelves
You can advance the timing a little from the factory 6⁰, but you have to unplug the computer wire to the distributor first. 10⁰ seems to be the norm but some go as far as 12⁰, just play with yours and see where it likes it the most, but make sure you use that same octane fuel from there out cause you will loose some potential range of computer retard for knock. I'm actually going to dial mine down some next time I pop the hood cause 93 is hard to find here. Granted I had mine rebuilt to a 383 and bumped up the compression from the abysmal stock compression when back in the good old days of leaded fuel and 83 octane everywhere. Low compression performance loss wasn't as much of an "importance" as getting better mpg from low octane was
Obviously, flush all brake fluid. Consider upgrading the brake lines to SS braided. Not for the performance as much as the potential of blowout from 40 year old rubber
Flush power steering fluid, coolant, ATF and manual transmission fluid. Leave the diff alone unless you know what you're doing. If like me you have a 4+3 the fill process for the OD requires rotating the rear tires while filling it, so either use a 4 post lift and let it idle in 1st gear, or get a good friend to spin the wheels in Neutral while it's on multiple good jack stands
Last edited by flannel_man; Jan 11, 2024 at 09:57 PM.








