Head Removal 1995 Corvette LT-1
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
That's the pipe that attaches to the cylinder head on the back-side? That's a bleed pipe and it's a necessity. You do NOT want to destroy the banjo bolts or tweak the connectors to the cylinder heads. The banjo bolts should unbolt.
If you have the FSM, 6B-12 covers it.
If you have the FSM, 6B-12 covers it.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
Ahhhhh bout that, it basically ripped itself apart when the head came loose. I seen some DIY that im gonna attempt but any other ideas is cool too
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,406
Likes: 2,744
It does appear to be still available from a couple vendors, OR maybe I should say recently when I looked. I'd probably buy new if available. There's an interesting fabrication done recently so maybe you reach out to that user and see how his finally worked out. Search here on the forum seems to be busted and I didn't find the thread easily but if I do I'll be back and post it.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 1,677
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,976
Likes: 244
My solution… (this may be the thread WVZR-1 was thinking of)
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1607232484
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1607232484
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 226
Likes: 79
From: Boise, Id
I just completed a complete clean, repair, and/or replace of components in my cooling system due to excessive stop leak clogging my coolant steam pipe, heater core, radiator, and restrictor located in the pipe/hose leading from the tee at the top of the radiator to the purge tank. I had concerns on my coolant bleed/steam pipe that connects the heads at the back of the engine. I ordered the coolant pipe listed on RPIs site (CA-22814). This site claims that the pipe is for a 1995. The pipe is different enough that I didn't want to try and bend it to get it to line up properly (might risk bending the pipe too much). I could not get a hold of RPI to get my money back. I probably waited too long anyway. I ended up using the new banjo bolts and seal that came with the pipe I ordered from RPI. If I ever pull the engine, I might take the time to tweak new pipe to align it to the engine. Might be best to make your own pipe or order a used one from online. Good luck,
Dave
Dave
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 1,677
I ordered the coolant pipe listed on RPIs site (CA-22814). This site claims that the pipe is for a 1995. The pipe is different enough that I didn't want to try and bend it to get it to line up properly (might risk bending the pipe too much). I could not get a hold of RPI to get my money back. I probably waited too long anyway. I ended up using the new banjo bolts and seal that came with the pipe I ordered from RPI. If I ever pull the engine, I might take the time to tweak new pipe to align it to the engine. Might be best to make your own pipe or order a used one from online. Good luck,
Dave
Dave
Do you have a picture showing where the bends did nothing match the OE piece?
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 226
Likes: 79
From: Boise, Id
Dave
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 226
Likes: 79
From: Boise, Id
I don't have any pictures off hand. I will try to remember to get a picture of the pipe and point to approximate location of the issue(s). For tonight, I will try and do my best to explain what it needed and/or where it was different. When I first got the part from RPI, I matched it up to the original one the best I could, and it looked like it would work. I noticed one thing right away, though. The tab that comes off the line that runs to the front of the intake manifold was different. This tab lined up with a third intake bolt from the front. My original one had its tab line up with the second intake bolt from the front (the same bolt used by the EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve). I figured I could still make it work so I didn't bother returning the pipe to RPI. About a month later, I was ready to reassemble the intake manifold area, so I tried to do a dry fit of the pipe. I loosely secured the pipe to the hole in the driver's side head and proceeded to get the pipe to position over the hole in the passenger's side head. The subtle bends in the pipe got in the way about 3 to 4 inches before the passenger side head, the pipe was hitting the part of block that comes up and forms the China wall. Hope this make some sense.
Dave
Dave
