I know buy another, they are still available in the aftermarket. They too will break. The plastic is so thin where the grub screw is and I believe they are made out of ABS where I think nylon or even glass reinforced nylon would be so very much better. Not to mention $30+ now for this junk plastic. The problem seems to be the torque needed on the screw to be sufficient enough not to slip on the rod exceeds what the plastic is capable of holding. It strips the threads, or stress cracks, and completely fails, eventually.

Anyone get creative without eliminating the feature?

 

Mine had a notch in the rod that the set screw fits in so it can't slip. Doesn't neet to be very tight.

 

Mine's cracked, not yet at end of life but getting close to it. I've been giving some thought to looking into having a replacement machined from aluminum. Haven't done anything about it yet.

Live well,

SJW

 

I don’t recall mine having any notch, it was marred a bit where the screw bit into it.

I was thinking same SJW, aluminum piece would be nice. My current one also has the crack, still works, till one day I need to backup and can’t.

 

There should be a radial groove in the lift rod that is engaged by the tip of the tiny Allen set screw.

Live well,

SJW

 

Is it possible to 3-D print one?

 

That's another possibility I've been considering. Would need to investigate whether there's a material that might better hold up.

Live well,

SJW

 

I think 3D printed nylon would be much better than ABS. Better yet if it had a threaded bushing pressed or molded in for the screw.

I thought about 3D print, but don’t know anyone that is into it and seems like a bit of an investment/learning curve.

 

I replaced my shifter with the Hurst style short throw from core shifters that deletes the reverse lockout. Easy install and feels great. Reverse is right and down so unless you plan on slamming it into 6th then its not really a problem. The centering on the shifter is better than stock and to get over to reverse is slightly further so it would be hard to do that anyway. It was $200 so it is an expensive option but well worth it imo.

 

I agree with the prior poster -- as I also eliminated my lockout by swapping to a short-throw shifter. Next to building a 383, it's the best mod on my car. Makes it infinitely better to shift/drive. Driving a stocker after the swap makes it feel like shifting a BIG RIG TRUCK! Can't believe they made 'em that way!

I share your pain as I fought with the issue a couple years before the swap. First, I used a dab of superglue in an attempt to resecure the crack formed on one side of the set screw. Even then, I had to carry a screwdriver to slightly snug (from time-to-time) in order to regain reverse. Now THAT'S "lock-out".

It's going on 15yrs since elimination of reverse lockout via short-throw shifter. Never been an issue. Never accidentally hit reverse. My insurance? I never shift into 6th w/o hitting 5th first. That way, I'm always moving the shifter straight rearward which avoids the possibility of hitting reverse..

Note: I actually did buy a replacement ring about 1yr before the conversion. It held w/o issue whereupon, I resold the new ring AND the original "****". When I converted shifters, I went to a ball displaying the Corvette logo.

I know the OP didn't ask for a solution w/o eliminating the lockout -- but it's so worth considering I had to agree with the prior poster and go into more detail.

 

I'll also add that I came across zfdocs modified zr1 shifter with t-handle lockout. Its pricy and I don't know if he still makes it but if he was able to modify the factory lockout then there's probably others out there that can/have done it.

 

Interim solution… plastic welder.

I’ve been eyeballing a plastic welder for a while and this was the excuse to get it. If you are unfamiliar, it works by heating a steel wire filament which is then melted into the plastic, cooled, trimmed, smoothed. So what I have here is my original 1994 lockout ring mended with 2 squiggly pieces of steel.

its not perfect and it ain’t too pretty, but it’s solid. Haven’t installed yet but I think it’s going to hold up just fine, if not better/stronger. It’s so out of sight hidden under the shift **** that I don’t think the imperfections will be noticed.

I squeezed it just a bit in a vice to close the gap in the crack, melted a squiggly wire in each side, smoothed and that is it.