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This may be a dumb question, but has anyone had an issue where one side of the rack is longer than the original rack? Let me explain.
I'm replacing the rack because it is leaking. Purchased Lares 23505 rack from RockAuto. Got it installed. Went to align the car, and the passenger side is so far out that I can't align it. I've bottomed out the outer tie rod on the inner tie rod, and it is still almost a degree out of spec. Ordered a replacement rack under warranty, and the same thing.
You can see the difference in the pictures below.
According to Rockauto, this part number is for the standard rack which from the code YM I have on the original one is what I have. Is Rockauto wrong, and I have the performance rack? What are the differences between the standard and the performance racks?
Thanks for your help with this.
Both racks lined up with input shafts clocked the same. Driver's side is lined up Passenger side about 1/2 in longer
I believe the difference between the two are the ratio. As for your problem I wonder if either they installed the wrong end shaft or didn't tread it on all the way. Truthfully I think the wrong shaft
(1) An early rack should measure something near 48" total tip to tip with no outer tie rods attached, the later something 50" + a fraction. I've got one that measures 50" and someone posted a long while back when I asked and his was 50 5/8 but the various later inner rods could account for that difference.
(2) A late rack with just inner tie rods attached I measured at 50", "vetteoz" measured his '89 at 50 5/8" and another poster mentioned his '84 measured 48". You could use these as a guide and along with the 2 letter code from the end cap confirm likely the rack identification. With a rack on the ground it's very easy to confirm the "lock to lock" turn counts. 2 turn is generally felt to be the desired and is frequently referred to as a Z51.
'84 - '87 length less outer tie rods 48" approx (I have never measured first hand)
You can't just take out of the box and install. The only way to actually compare would be using the input shaft, center it out of the box using a wrench and turning. Install in car and then after centering the steering wheel and locking, attempt setting the toe to specifications. I seriously doubt you have an incorrect (but anything is possible) rack, Not having the rack centered before trying to install outer tie rods will always create an issue.
Just start over if the if the length tip to tip matches the dimensions mentioned in post #4.
So the rack I took out of the car mesures 47in tip to tip. The replacement measures 48in tip to tip. Any ideas on why the one I removed would be an inch shorter?
This may be a dumb question, but has anyone had an issue where one side of the rack is longer than the original rack? Let me explain.
I'm replacing the rack because it is leaking. Purchased Lares 23505 rack from RockAuto. Got it installed. Went to align the car, and the passenger side is so far out that I can't align it. I've bottomed out the outer tie rod on the inner tie rod, and it is still almost a degree out of spec. Ordered a replacement rack under warranty, and the same thing.
You can see the difference in the pictures below.
According to Rockauto, this part number is for the standard rack which from the code YM I have on the original one is what I have. Is Rockauto wrong, and I have the performance rack? What are the differences between the standard and the performance racks?
Thanks for your help with this.
Both racks lined up with input shafts clocked the same. Driver's side is lined up Passenger side about 1/2 in longer
Looking to buy this same rack from rock auto, were you able to get the alignment addressed and make it all work?
Rack and Pinion Issue
