Coolant problems 94 LT1
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2024
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Coolant problems 94 LT1
Hello everybody, this is my first time posting here, i usually just read but today i have an issue i need help with. I was driving on the highway and noticed the car getting hot and I’ve had a low coolant light that had popped up for a second or two a couple times but it went away instantly and
when i pulled over my coolant was very low, wasn’t leaking at all and hasn’t leaked since i got it home but I had to put some water in the reservoir to get it home but even after filling it properly and bleeding the air out it hasn’t changed the overheating problem at all, no white smoke, nothing leaking, maybe my thermostat is broken? or coolant isn’t getting cycled somehow i’m lost and I am not very mechanically inclined and I’m just looking for some possible solutions. One thing I can add is after I turn the car off Sometimes it makes it pretty crazy sound that has only been happening pretty much since this has happened where it’s almost like metal tanking and clinging coming from the engine block but it sounds like the coolant flowing through. It’s really odd, but it sounds like it goes towards the reservoir and this is while it’s totally off key out and everything and it lasts for like 20 seconds. I know i’m not great with explaining it but if you have any knowledge on this please let me know, Thanks
when i pulled over my coolant was very low, wasn’t leaking at all and hasn’t leaked since i got it home but I had to put some water in the reservoir to get it home but even after filling it properly and bleeding the air out it hasn’t changed the overheating problem at all, no white smoke, nothing leaking, maybe my thermostat is broken? or coolant isn’t getting cycled somehow i’m lost and I am not very mechanically inclined and I’m just looking for some possible solutions. One thing I can add is after I turn the car off Sometimes it makes it pretty crazy sound that has only been happening pretty much since this has happened where it’s almost like metal tanking and clinging coming from the engine block but it sounds like the coolant flowing through. It’s really odd, but it sounds like it goes towards the reservoir and this is while it’s totally off key out and everything and it lasts for like 20 seconds. I know i’m not great with explaining it but if you have any knowledge on this please let me know, Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: LeClaire Iowa
Professional Combustion Leak Detector Tool Ideal for Routine Engine Checks | eBay
Maybe use something like this to check for combustion gas leaks. Dan
Maybe use something like this to check for combustion gas leaks. Dan
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 169
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Get a new water pump and rad cap if you haven't. Sounds like air is trapped inside still. LT1s are tough to bleed. It took many times before I finally figured out mine. Best way is to start over. Do this:
Have a portion of carload box flap handy. Have the heater turned on, nose of car should be up high on jack stands.
1) Open the main bleeder valves. Keep open
2) Drain the coolant
3) inspect all hoses for rot cracks etc and replace. Inspect possible debris clogging radiator and condenser. ((A new rad, condenser, and compressor would be awesome if funds exist)).
4) tighten all hose clamps
5) fill rad with coolant. keep rad cap off and bleeders still open. Close the smaller bleeder valve nearest to the TB. That piece of cardboard is to deflect coolant away from the opti spark from the large bleeder valve. Arrange that.
6) start car, keep adding coolant to rad as it drops.
7) the large bleeder should have have steady stream pretty soon...now close it. Top of rad and close it.
8) coolant system is closed, car is running, heater is on. Look for leaks, lower car, watch temp Guage as it idles. Make sure fans come on switching to AC on.
9) take a drive and moniter. Car should be good to go!
I've had good luck doing it this way. Knock on wood
Have a portion of carload box flap handy. Have the heater turned on, nose of car should be up high on jack stands.
1) Open the main bleeder valves. Keep open
2) Drain the coolant
3) inspect all hoses for rot cracks etc and replace. Inspect possible debris clogging radiator and condenser. ((A new rad, condenser, and compressor would be awesome if funds exist)).
4) tighten all hose clamps
5) fill rad with coolant. keep rad cap off and bleeders still open. Close the smaller bleeder valve nearest to the TB. That piece of cardboard is to deflect coolant away from the opti spark from the large bleeder valve. Arrange that.
6) start car, keep adding coolant to rad as it drops.
7) the large bleeder should have have steady stream pretty soon...now close it. Top of rad and close it.
8) coolant system is closed, car is running, heater is on. Look for leaks, lower car, watch temp Guage as it idles. Make sure fans come on switching to AC on.
9) take a drive and moniter. Car should be good to go!
I've had good luck doing it this way. Knock on wood
