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1996 LT1 - Had not run for 4+ years and I'm the guy trying to bring it back. Yes I have many things to check and I've been doing lots of work. Today I started it and it was running rough, but running even idles, since it had been down so long I was letting it run to see if it would learn and smooth out (not sure about C4 technology). Anyway just before I was going to shut it off, I was going to check the vacuum to the brake booster (unrelated problem) and when I opened the hood it died. Strange, after running for 20 minutes. Fired it up, ran up to 3000rpms and let it idle,10 seconds it died. Same after a few tries. It doesn't stumble, it dies cold. The only code I have is the crank position sensor. I had tried to change it earlier, but between the location and not wanting to break of the (too tight) bolt I didn't.
I've previously (last 3 weeks) replaced, battery (alt is charging), plugs, Opti, water pump, fuel pump, fuel sending assembly, radiator, thermostat, all filters, oil change, PCV valve, instrument panel, and a few other things. I drained and cleaned the gas tank, as well as flushing the lines a litttle.
Let's start the journey with suggestions.
I have a 96 LT1. My crank sensor went out but it still ran fine. The bolt is small it should not be that tight. 10mm I think I remember. Mine also went out after changing the opti. I wondered later if I just moved the connector. Dan
I have a 96 LT1. My crank sensor went out but it still ran fine. The bolt is small it should not be that tight. 10mm I think I remember. Mine also went out after changing the opti. I wondered later if I just moved the connector. Dan
It's 8mm and the only wrench I can fit, because of the cross brace is only 4 1/2" long, no leverage. Yep, bolt shouldn't be that tight, but it is. Also too low and not enough clearance to clean the terminal and connector with contact cleaner. I've disconnected it a couple of times hoping to insure contact and I'll check it again. Not sure there is anything wrong, but that is the code or indication my OBD II reads. At this point I'm leaning a little towards injectors, because it smooths out if I spray starter fluid in the intake slot of the air filter, to me indicating fuel where it might not be getting.
I bought it cheap, so I thought, assuming some repairs. Now it is closing in on a Money Pit.
Like I said before when my crank sensor went bad I got the code but car ran fine. I fixed it as I don't want the check engine light lit. If I would get another code I would not know. I actually took it to a local garage where a mechanic I know did it on a lift. I did not think I could have got it on jack stands. It took him all of 3 minutes to remove it. Had to go back to tool chest to get fittings to reach it. Be sure to lube the oring when you put in the new one. The first one he put in he tore the oring and I had to take it back so he could change the oring. Dan
Like I said before when my crank sensor went bad I got the code but car ran fine. I fixed it as I don't want the check engine light lit. If I would get another code I would not know. I actually took it to a local garage where a mechanic I know did it on a lift. I did not think I could have got it on jack stands. It took him all of 3 minutes to remove it. Had to go back to tool chest to get fittings to reach it. Be sure to lube the oring when you put in the new one. The first one he put in he tore the oring and I had to take it back so he could change the oring. Dan
That would be OK if the car was drivable. I'll be rebuilding calipers and having rotors turned, so at that time I lift it a little higher and have more crawl room to give it a shot. As you say I couldn't really access it from the bottom before, but it's worth another try.
Thanks
Well, I have personally, with my own eyes, seen it changed out from the bottom on a 96. Dan PS: Come to Iowa and have the mechanic called "Worm" change it for you.