When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ZF6 is not the weak link if it’s not worn out, the half shafts and diff will give out sooner. Should upgrade the clutch though. They run the ZF with 1000HP silver state cars, and if you’re at that level, it does need some modifications.
ZF6 is not the weak link if it’s not worn out, the half shafts and diff will give out sooner. Should upgrade the clutch though. They run the ZF with 1000HP silver state cars, and if you’re at that level, it does need some modifications.
So with a new clutch, and a normal rebuild for the ZF ,simply because of the high mileage, with a build dana 44, I’d have a much lower chance of something going out on me correct?
1607688306[/url]]So with a new clutch, and a normal rebuild for the ZF ,simply because of the high mileage, with a build dana 44, I’d have a much lower chance of something going out on me correct?
Well… yes but replace “new clutch” idea with a “better clutch”… than OEM Valeo Pressure Plate with organic friction disc and dual mass flywheel.
How’s the current ZF6 working? Smooth as peanut butter, 1-2 shift and 2-1 shift downshifting, 3-4 shift, and also reverse? If not, I wouldn’t use it until someone like ZF Doc went through it. If it’s good, they could use a rebuild every 100K to 150K miles… but if you only have 50K miles and it’s smooth and not prone to hang or pops out of gear etc.
Well… yes but replace “new clutch” idea with a “better clutch”… than OEM Valeo Pressure Plate with organic friction disc and dual mass flywheel.
How’s the current ZF6 working? Smooth as peanut butter, 1-2 shift and 2-1 shift downshifting, 3-4 shift, and also reverse? If not, I wouldn’t use it until someone like ZF Doc went through it. If it’s good, they could use a rebuild every 100K to 150K miles… but if you only have 50K miles and it’s smooth and not prone to hang or pops out of gear etc.
From what I’ve read mine has already been converted to one the RAM Single mass kits, just because of the knocking I get when Im in neutral and the clutch is out, and the fact that the previous owner said the clutch had been replaced but he didn’t know with what. I’m sitting at about 140k miles but honestly the transmission feels very smooth. I figured by the time I finished building the new block I’d find a time to send it down to ZF Doc for a rebuild
Here is the cam that I bought from Mike Jones at Jones Custom Cams
232/236@.050"
.360"/.360" Lobe Lift
.576"/.576" Valve Lift with 1.6 Ratio rockers
112 LSA
I highly recommend this strategy, contact Mike Jones and he will design a cam just for you, and it's a beautiful high quality billet cam for not much more than an off the shelf cast iron core cam. There is a little bit of wait once you firm up an order, but well worth it. Make sure to get a hydraulic roller cam for hydraulic roller lifters and solid cam for solid roller, as they are designed with different ramp. If you do upgraded lifters (which is likely if you're doing the MJ cam) make sure you lock down the specs first, with regard to height and diameter of the roller. Also determine compression ratio and fuel, as that's an important part of how the cam is designed. I have 11.2:1 static CR on pump gas, so it's a little bit more valve timing compared to one that has lower CR.
On the negative side (for others reading this), he doesn't seem to be interested in mild street engines per our conversation at PRI about 20 years ago, so the OEM TPI setup is probably going to mean Comp/Isky/Bullet/Crane etc.