I’m currently building a 1 piece 383 stroker for my 6 speed 90. I have a fully forged eagle stroker kit with -18cc pistons and 5.7 rods on the way. I’m planning on using the TPIS mini ram. My end goal is to have a street/track car with good power until I can upgrade my transmission to handle the boost from a procharger. Any recommendations on cams and heads is very appreciated. I should also mention the zf 6 speeds handle 450 ft lbs of torque stock but I plan on tuning the car down if needed to keep it reliable.

Edit: I would prefer to keep a hydraulic roller cam.

 

I am building a very similar motor myself!
Was originally going to go into my 1991 ZF6 but plans change....

Anyway

Here is the cam that I bought from Mike Jones at Jones Custom Cams

232/236@.050"
.360"/.360" Lobe Lift
.576"/.576" Valve Lift with 1.6 Ratio rockers
112 LSA

The heads I am going with are AFR 195 Enforcer heads. Pistons are Icon 9914-030 with 10cc of volume.

Intake is going to be a Miniram or a converted LT1 intake. In either case, true short runner intake.

Aiming for a 6500 redline, and around 380-400rwhp in a ZF6 C4

The heads flow 250 CFM 197 CFM intake and exhaust and the combo is supposed to be doing 465 crank horsepower or so.

 

195cc should be a good street head. You can go bigger with a blower as it will move the air for you.

Years ago I did a 383 LT4 for my 96 with Afr 195cc heads and a comp 232/236 hyd roller.I had 441 rwhp through the 6 speed.

 

Holy heck 440rwhp NA all motor!?!?

What port work was done to the LT4 intake?
Engine management?

Street or Competition CNC ported AFR headset?

Glad to hear at least the duration of my cam is about right!

I will be super happy if I hit 400rwhp through the ZF6 with the AFR Enforcer 195 heads.

 

23x/23x seems to be the sweet spot on most 383s... Pick your poison for cam selector tools be it vizzard or whoever and you usually end up with something like a 232/236 on a 110 LSA or there about. Mine for when I do eventually build it is similar to @yakmastermax at 231/239 at 110 LSA with .536/.528 lift and also from Mike Jones. Again, similar to the other two with similar goals, good all around. Since you do plan to add a procharger I would think accordingly with that as well. All cams are boost cams but I would want to figure out what I want from that so that I don't end up doing things twice...

 

What type of buld is this? Street or full custom ***** to the wall.

Generally speaking a NA cam is a bit dffrent than a Supercharged cam. Wth a supercharger you can get good result with modest intake duration, low levels of overlap and more exhaust duraton. NA engine's do better wth over lap... we know that at a partcuar RPM the intake length, exhaust and cam will all start to harmonize and make good power. Forced induction can upset that balance so other consideratons need to be made. And at some points too much overlap tends to have your intake charge just be blown out the exhaust valve. That mght be fine on a full custom but for a street driver it wll be soggy.

Modern heads flow a lot at mid lft so its not necessary to use big cams unless your dyno racing and need to hit a peak number. It's not the '60's where guys are crutching only what they have, poor flowing camel humps by using big cams. If it were my streetable build, I'd go with something like a 212/220 on a 114 LSA. (I'm a smooth idle guy). That should make about 400 HP on a well done 383 wth headers and offer up all the torques right were you can use it. 3500 to 5500 RPM. Add 8 PSI and you'll be at 550 HP. More than that and your're into a full rear end redesign to be able to use that power. You can use intake length to tune you power band for your diff ratio. Tall diff and you want all torqes closer to 4000 RPM then port the TPI setup. Shorter diff ratio...and want to extrend the RPM a bit so it starts a bt later and carries just up to 6000, use a shorter intake like a cut down Stealth ram if it needs to fit under the OE hood.

Really no point tryng to spin a modest biuld near 7000 RPM, you'll have belt and igntion issues. If you're going full custom wth all modern accessories and engne management... thats a diffrent kind'a build with a dffrent set of rules.

 

icsamerica is spot on. My 383 was a NA 10:1 with a 224/224 on 110 (wish it had been 108) with Rhoads lifters. It was a fantastic street engine with great chop that would blow the tires off with a 3.73 dif. Added a blower and it fell on its face at high rpms. The original stock mild 350 cam turned out to be the ticket. Went back to NA for longer life. Keep my foot in that sucker for 30 yrs before my son borrowed the engine for his Camaro. Never saw it again. Biggest problem I had was the ported 186 heads that suffered exhaust valves burning the seats down into the water jacket. It didn't have hardened exhaust seats, and unleaded gas issues hadn't cropped up yet in those days.

 

Had Stainless works 1 5/8 long tubes into Corsa 2.5 exhaust.Single mass flywheel with spec 2.5 clutch.It was a reasonably quick street car.

 

Was that 440rwhp measured on a dyno?

What other work was done? Heads? Intake?
What was the lift and the LSA of the cam?

 

Chassis Dyno when tuned.

Heads were Afr 195 with a good valve job.

Intake was stock LT4

Don't remember the lift, cam was ground on a 112.

 

Then Camshaft you suggested seems very reasonable. I did a lot of research on what specs would be correct for a 350, but I realized with a 383 I’ll need a larger cam to have similar performance curve, but with a higher lsa as it’s better fitted for boosted applications.

https://www.eaglerod.com/item/552692...word=12304L030

This is the stroker kit I went with.

 

Then only things I’m worried about is the transmission. The black tag zf 60 is rated for 450 lb ft pounds of torque and I would need to save to upgrade it after I’m finished with the engine

 

From what I’ve read throughout this thread 23(<5)/23(5>) for duration at .05 seems to be a great combination of street reliability and performance. I was planning on going with an lsa of 114 because from other sources a tighter lsa is better for boosted applications. Suggestions on actual camshaft models is always appreciated too

 

Don’t sweat the trans. Plenty of guys running more power than you are without issue.

And not sure what you are thinking of doing to upgrade it.

 

So I can run 500 lift cam and make power
I don't think so.

a 232 cam and 500 lift
is not anywhere near the same as a 232 /600 lift cam. Same everything else. The 600 lift will have completely different/better ramp rates and alot more area.
that's does not include the benefit of more lift and head flow ,which = more velocity and everything adds up to more power.

those enforcer heads are good ,especially ported
a 383 will need a bigger pushrod pinch imho than what they come with. 2" , radius needs to be taken into account, would be good and they will flow more and still drive on the street perfectly.

 

ZFDoc seems to be the only person rebuilding ZF S6-40.
http://www.zfdoc.com/S6-40remanufacture.htm
Here he lists a procedure to convert it to S6-40 ORRSD which would seem to be my only option other than swapping to another trans for more power. Thank you for the input

 

All you are doing there is providing more oil passage. Which is only needed if you are running higher speeds for longer period of time. I've got mine setup with an oil cooler after Bill built mine.

 

Then ZF Doc website can be a little confusing, would Bill be able to rebuild mine to handle much more horsepower, if i wanted to boost it in the future. It’s just unclear what services he provides on the website.

 

I have a bone stock ZF 6 black tag in my 91. It runs 9's, and I have never hurt the trans. I dump the clutch between 5000 to 5500 rpm with slicks, and it takes it just fine

 

Sounds good I haven’t looked into real world applications of the zf black tags, I only checked the service manual rating.