Im changing the heads on my 350 and im asking myself, can i just change the heads, i also bougth a camshaft but im wondering, if i dont change the cam, can i just do a swap from old heads to new heads? The heads i bougth are these: ROCOMP SBC 190/64CC COMPLETE ALUMINUM HEADS WITH STUDS & GUIDE PLATES

 

Your question is probably being avoided because your post reads real spastic.Frankly, you sound like someone who shouldn't be digging into an engine at all. I'm not saying that's the case, necessarily, but that's how this post makes you sound. It's just all kinds of tore up.

First off, why are you even asking this question? Why wouldn't you be able to change only the heads? Without any context, that just sounds like you don't know how engines work.

Second, why do you now have reservations about the new cam you bought? If you want people to dig into this post and help, you should really post the specs of the cam as well.

Third, if you're running the stock intake on your Crossfire, this head swap is not going to realize much of its potential, as the intake can't feed them the air they can flow. And if you add a bigger cam on top of that, it'll be even more mismatched. So there is an actual reason to refrain from the cam swap, unless you have plans to upgrade the induction at some point as well.

 

You problably should just change the heads so long as the valve spring pressure is compatible with hydralic flat tappets and I thnk those heads have springs that are.

Most beginners over cam their engines. Keep in mind Chevy went from 240HP to 300HP (L98 to LT1) with a much better heads, debatable intake and a smaller emissions cam. I would focus on heads, intake, exhaust system and tuning. Leave the cam alone for now. You can crutch the cam wth some 1.6 or roller rockers on the intake. Modern heads have great lower and mid lift flow. I've seen pro's go from a small cam 350 to a MUCH big'er cam on a stroker build and only pckup up 60 HP but loose idle, and all drvablty in the process. Then you need a converter, gears to use that RPM range or you'll have a slug.

 

I think you would be better off swapping out the engine for a good used vortec 350 and adapting the cfi/tbi or carb to that.

 

'Most beginners over cam their engines.' Was just yesterday telling a young man about how I had done exactly this at 16 years old. Everything must work in concert with the other parts or you will go slower.

 

stock cam would be ok. the intake manifold and exhaust manifold will be the choke point with these heads.

 

I am in the middle of building my vevor 200cc 68cc heads..bought my own hardware for the bare castings. I also have a torker 1 intake with a TBI adapted to it from a 350 Truck motor...all the wiring will hook up to TBI and can keep the stock ECM and Distributor...I will let you know how it goes...keeping stock cam....

 

If your retaining the CFI 190 is too much , 170 no more than 180 and the stock computer works > I ran a Crane 2040 Powermax , Dart heads 170cc , 1.6-1 roller tips , long tubes and a ported CFI on the stock ECM . As I recall the 190cc heads caused surging and idle issues, but it's been about 16-17 years since I was knee deep in it lol best of luck . ALSO - get a TPI 85 up fuel pump

 

I am going to use TBI and a normal low rise edelbrock intake. 1.6 roller rockers as well

 

Most likely it will run lean. There's fuel pressure adjuster for sale for tbi. At the very least it will need more fuel pressure. 2v manifold flows 222cfm average. If those are like dna heads, they flow 225cfm at .400 . Dna heads have raised ports. May need port match.

 

Thanks for the tips. The intake is slightly smaller than the head port, have to compromise and use a 1205 gasket so it will seal both the head and the intake. Better to be a little small on the intake vs the intake being larger than the head port. I know the guy changed the pump in the car, but not sure what pump he put in....I heard only the newer pumps are regularly available..not sure...There is a stiffer spring available for the TBI, or someone said they shim the spring with a quarter. Others drill out the lead or weld on the original tbi regulator and make it adjustable with a set screw...my intake is a Torker 1..which is better than a Torker 2....also smaller ports to keep the velocity up...I made my own adapter plate, since the throttle pulls towards the front of the car and all the fuel lines are in the front it made sense to do it this way. Also the adapter you can buy put the TBI in the rear of plenum vs center, for a spread bore intake. I have all the parts to put my heads together...just went with Z28 springs...Elgin valves, springs, retainers, Trick Flow spring cups...blah blah....My friend has a shop where I can check and adjust spring pressures and he can cut seats if needed....actually he has a full machine shop he bought from a local shop that closed.

 

that's a different manifold then I was thinking. that will flow more.