Hello everyone!
I’ve been driving with an aluminum single mass flywheel and since I’ve mounted I’ve experienced every problem associated with these: transmission rattle( idle is high so the noise is acceptable )overheated flywheel because of uneven wear, hard to use in traffic and recently since I’ve fitted a kevlar thicker disc, at cold start the FW rubbs the clutch fork. The mechanic that installed it had the brilliant idea to mill a little bit from the fork < now there is a chance it could bend> whith no change. I will try a new ball stud and probably a new clutch. Anyway, I also have a billet steed FW that came with the crate engine that is probably better balanced and I think it could be a better idea. However, the center step is shallower and the mechanics showed me it would rub the springs on the clutch. I don’t remember if it could’ve been possible to mount the disc with the flat side towards the FW. Any idea if this type of FW can be used?
the transmission is the zf 6-40 black tag
thank you

 

I have a good fork and pivot ball that came with the ZF I swapped in to my 85 that I'm not using. (I went with a hydraulic TOB to keep my push style clutch.) If you need it I'd let it go for the price of shipping. You'd be helping me get rid of some clutter.

 

Thank you but I’ve already ordered a new fork and ball stud but might not solve the problem. Someone mentioned he put a 1/8” spacer for the bell housing but on a different car and transmission that had the same problem. That could be a good idea. I also want to buy a mcleod pressure plate, and friction disc for the aluminum FW, looks identical to mine.

 

I have two plans:
A- mount a 4mm spacer between the engine ad the bell housing to avoid the rubbing between the pressure plate and the fork; bought fork, std ball, FW new friction disc, and new pressure plate as spares in case there are problems with the old ones.
B- go for the FW that came balanced with the crate engine which is the thinner than a normal FW and buy a solid disc. The solid disc will probably stress the counter axle more but during shifts it shoiuldn't be a problem. If you accidentally release the clutch suddenly the after the springs reach the end of travel there will be a spike in torque hammer like. With the solid disc the spike is only at the engagement with the disc and I think it has a lower amplitude, can;t be a hammer like spike. The transmission rattle is ok with the spring but I don't know about the solid disc, might be too much. Any thoughts?

 

I've finally removed the aluminum FW and wanted try the solid steel FW that came with the engine. After installation it was ok, the clutch was operating normally but when they lowered it to the ground the clutch stuck closed so you couldn't disengage the engine. The pressure plate is stuck with the throw out bearing outwards, so I suspect the fork pulled the blades too much because the pressure plate was farther from it and they went all the way until they got stuck
PS the clutch plate is ready to be installed again.
I think if I put some rag beneath the pedal it should limit the travel. or I can cut a bit from the slave cylinder rod
Update:
Limiting the pedal is not a solution because the slave cyl rod would keep tension in the diaphragm before pushing the clutch so a shorter rod should work
We installed at old Aluminium Fw with the PP rectified but unfortunately the fork I bought from Zip got bent, it seems to be made of softer material. we are trying to repair the old fork now which was damaged when trying to replace it.
Update: No idea why the mechanic couldn’t remove the fork without removing the ball pivot. He also destroyed the old ball pivot in the process. After installing the new fork and new pivot ball, they pushed the clutch hard and not only the new fork got very slightly bent, but the pivot ball cracked when they removed it again probably it was subject to high tension while pushing the clutch. So, the fork from Zip although a bit weaker could be an acceptable product if used properly and the pivot ball as well. Now, they repaired the old fork, looks ok, and they machined a new pivot ball from mild steel.
Update: turns out the harmonic balancer was rubbing the frame. I've replaced it with a 6.5" fluidampr. Drove the car in the parking and it was all ok but will see.