95 auto lt1

battery has a drain of around 0.200. The problem is that it comes and goes. I’ll be checking it, and it’ll go back down to around 0.040. Then within a few minutes, it goes back up, even when nothing changes. Multiple times I thought I fixed the problem by pulling a fuse or something but it comes back because it’s really just hiding. Pulling a fuse will make it go down pretty much every time, but it comes right back. I don’t know how to find the source of the problem if the problem just hides from me. It’s enough to kill the battery overnight, and every time I come out after a long time of not touching it, it’ll have the 0.200 drain.

 

Do the door switches seem to work right?

 

On the driver side door just about everything is disconnected still. Got it like that. I plugged up the window + mirror controls and the mirrors don’t work and only the passenger window will move.

While messing around I found out that clamping the multimeter onto the battery makes the draw stay the same (before I would just reconnect it to check every time which let it change and “disappear”. Rookie mistake ig :v)

in doing that and pulling fuses again, I have a problem with the ccm2 fuse. Makes sense considering all my gauges and stuff don’t work and the light for the screen is so dim you can barely see it. Pulling ccm2 makes the car start and then die after about 5 seconds. Is my issue the cluster itself or the ccm (when it comes to the battery dying)?

 

I don't know. I don't think ccms go bad very often. Of course, I don't get paid to think anymore either. Ha.

It could be one or two of so many different things going on. Something as simple as a shorted wire/circuit.

I've only had two instances where my battery would die overnight.

The first was a bad alternator that drained the battery overnight. The second instance was a faulty door switch.

 

checked all the door connections and nothing changed. All roads lead to the ccm and what it controls. But it’s got its hands in so many things I’m not sure what’s messed up. Also hearing you have to get a new one programmed and that, sounds like a real pain.

 

There is another method of checking for current draw. Don't know if you have tried it. Use your meter set to the mv scale. Put the test leads across the fuse and check for a reading. You first have to make sure the passenger door switch is OC and then leave the car sit for about 1/2 hour to make sure everything is "asleep". Charts are available on the net that coverts this mv reading to current draw depending on fuse size. By using this method you are not inadvertently "waking up" anything by unplugging and inserting fuses.