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Before I get anything else for my car, I was wondering what are some setups people are using to get into the 12's on daily driver cars w/o N20. I was thinking about the SC route but I thought I'd ask what other people are using first.
I did gears and a high stall Torque converter, so far it's only got me to 12.99, but the car needs new plugs and wires and stuff like that, and I still have the stock exhaust.
With a D44 and 3.73's and a Vigilante Torque Converter, you'll be in the 12's EASY. Panuzzo has this combo and you'll hit lower than a 12.9 w/ good traction. I'm debating what route i'm going to be taking and I think I am gonna copy Panuzzo's exact combination. GL on your search.
I agree but I have a convertible with an auto tranny. That's about 1 full sec slower than a 6 spd coupe and will make it even tougher for me to get into the 12's. I'm around 14 flat right now, so I have another 2 secs to gain and I figure the only way to do that is through the engine. If don't need to, that'd be great though!
That 101+mph trap speed is indicative of around 275CHP for a 3370lb Vette; with your mods you should be building around 320CHP which would be good for a best of 12.7sec at 106+MPH.
Was the track hot that day or at a high elevation??
Heads/cam will put you in the 12s. I did it in my 93 convertible. When you are in the 12s and you will want more, that is why now I got blown 383ci and the juice.
Bruce
93LT1 Conv w/ZF6
Blown D1-SC/N2O
ARE built 383ci/Stage II heads
That 101+mph trap speed is indicative of around 275CHP for a 3370lb Vette; with your mods you should be building around 320CHP which would be good for a best of 12.7sec at 106+MPH.
Was the track hot that day or at a high elevation??
I raced at Rt 66 on at around 76 degrees (i think). I've raced it about 10 times in varying conditions but none of them got me below the 14 sec mark.
Thats pretty rough, you need to keep going to the track and get that down, then youll be in the mid/upper 13s. Dont put your money on mods until you can drive the car in stock form, otherwise youll still be spinning the tires at the line.
I can't get it to go any faster at the line without breaking traction. I believe on that run, I got a good line and when it shifted (chirped both times). If I try revving it anymore at the line, I'll break traction and just spin.
My vote goes towards gears for one of your next mods. That should be worth a few tenths alone. Not 12s by itself. But most modifications you make will get along better with a higher ratio gearset. 3.73s if you can tolerate the extra rpm.
I was thinking about doing gears at one point. I was thinking about doing the 3.73's at first but I heard they gave problems more freuently because of pinions and that I would be better off with 3.54's. I was later told that if I was gonna do that, I should just go with a Dana 44 because they come with 3.54's in them and the extra strength would be useful.
I got mine down to 12.91 on the Mich. Pilot tires with the mods in my signiture. Also that was with the hardtop on. Try staying out of the water, do a short spin before staging, just enough to clean the dirt off of your tires. Also try both ASR on and off. I agree with others that you need a better 60 ft time. My best has been 1.78. Also, I was told that for every 1/10 you drop in the first 60ft will equal approx. 2/10 at the end.
I got mine down to 12.91 on the Mich. Pilot tires with the mods in my signiture. Also that was with the hardtop on. Try staying out of the water, do a short spin before staging, just enough to clean the dirt off of your tires. Also try both ASR on and off. I agree with others that you need a better 60 ft time. My best has been 1.78. Also, I was told that for every 1/10 you drop in the first 60ft will equal approx. 2/10 at the end.