Do you cut the bushings on the top or bottem of the spring? Thanks

 

You remove the portion of the bushing between the frame and the top of the spring and replace it with the wedges.

 

Thanks...one more question. Do the wedges replace that metal piece on top of the bushing or do I need to reattach that after the bushing is cut off? Also does the flat side of the wedge face up or down? I don't like to read directions can you tell..... :D

 

Cut off the upper bumper flush with the spring. Glue the wedge with the flat side to the frame. Then reassemble. I only dropped 3/8" on the front with the wedge.

 

I found the best way to cut the rubber was with a large sharp knife and a lubricant...dishwashing liquid does the trick.

 

I don't remember a metal peice on top of the bushing. There is one on the end pads between the ends of the springs and where they seat in the A-arms--but that is not where the wedges go.

If you are talking about the bracket that goes under the bushing and attaches to the frame, you'll need to trim it about the same amount that you removed from the rubber above the frame. Oh...wait a minute. You might be talking about the aluminum shims that go between the bracket, bushing, and the frame. These should be removed as well to give you a little more lowering. I had to re-use them on the undreside of the bracket as spacers because I didn't want to replace the bolts through the frame with shorter ones. I hope all of this makes sense. :)

 

I think the "metal piece" you mention is the spacer. I took mine and put it on the bottom to make up the space on the threads of the bolts. When I did mine MAD had good instructions on their web sight.

 

The flat side of the bushing is the side you glue to the frame. I used gasket adhesive to do this. The angle face of the bush that faces the spring has the angles cut in it to allow for the angle of curvature on the spring.

The metal piece being discussed has to be the spacer or shim in my interpretation. I did whaty 90 Steel Blue did. I didn't reinstall them where they originally were and mounted them to the underside of the spring retainer (between the retainer and the bolts) to make up for some of the loss of metal on the aluminium spring retainers so I could do up the nuts to hold them in instead.

If you haven't cut the bushes off yet, measure how tall they are with the metal shim on top. Then measure the height of the lowering wedge. The difference between the two is how much height you have to trim from the facing edges of the aluminium spring retainers. Becasue you have to trim the retainers (so they still hold the spring securely) you will likely not have enough thread to do the nuts up all the way when reinstalling them - this is when you install the metal shim between the spring retainer and the bolts (you may need to use some washers or something as well if you still don't have enough thread).

By the way, not all cars have the metal shims.

HTH


[Modified by Red 90 L98 Coupe, 1:33 PM 2/5/2003]

 

Thanks guy you have been a big help.
What about the bushings on the very end of the spring, If you cut these I would think that it would move the a-arm up raiseing the wheel in the fender thus getting the car a bit lower.....Right?

 

Yep. :yesnod: I can't say how well it (the spring) would wear though. I think that is supposed to be worth about a quarter of an inch. I think Vette92 on this forum did it on his old convertible. I would just do the inboard wdges first and see how you like that. Relatively speaking, it won't be a huge PITA to R&R the wheels and hubs to get to the spring pads on the outside of the spring if you still want to go lower.

Another option is to not use the wedge at all on top of the spring. I would recommend using some sort of thin rubber insulator to protect the spring where it will rub on the chassis (ie: where the wedges fit) though.

Also, remember to lube the contact points for the spring when you re-install (ie: where the spring pads in the crossmember and under the outside wdge of the spring. Use a non-petroleum base grease.

HTH

I just used the stock kit and while I wouldn't mind going a little lower, I have to be cautious enough about bumps as it is. Also, the rear end will be sitting pretty close to it's bumpstops if you lower it to the standard kit height (it is on my car anyway).

FWIW, some people here have reported the top of the front tyres hitting the inside of the fender guards on big bumps when combined with a soft supension and extreme lowering - not trying to scare you but you have to be aware.

 

You Rock thanks!!!!

The end bushings are cut, and wedges are going on tonight, I'll post pics when its done :cheers:

 

Darn, looks like its gonna be Sunday before the project starts.

 

Glad to be of help. Any time mate. :thumbs: :cheers:

Look forward to your pics, I think it will be in the weeds when you are done. :cool:


[Modified by Red 90 L98 Coupe, 7:39 PM 2/6/2003]