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Try rolling the car backwards in neutral slowly and stabbing the brakes hard. Maybe take a video to see the wheel movement relative to the body. This should isolate the knuckle and dogbones from the drivetrain.
Update: I tried TB's trick. No dice...the suspension is solid. Not a peep out of it.
More and more convinced the c-beam is making contact somewhere.
Torque on rear axle nuts at the hub? Miles since last time Teflon washers were replaced?
Though I would think both of these things could/would make noise in reverse as well, I wouldn’t rule them out. Probably missed it in the thread, but I’m sure you’ve checked all u joints already.
Just out of curiosity... does it appear to slightly "torque steer" when getting on it too? I probably couldn't hear a thud or noise on mine when it does this but I do get an ever so slight shift/pull on spirited turns or straight line pulls... Not guessing, just asking for more observations as it can hone in more what may be causing it....
Torque on rear axle nuts at the hub? Miles since last time Teflon washers were replaced?
Though I would think both of these things could/would make noise in reverse as well, I wouldn’t rule them out. Probably missed it in the thread, but I’m sure you’ve checked all u joints already.
All those parts were replaced and torqued down properly. The clunk is the reason why I went ahead and replaced a bunch of stuff in the first place.
Just out of curiosity... does it appear to slightly "torque steer" when getting on it too? I probably couldn't hear a thud or noise on mine when it does this but I do get an ever so slight shift/pull on spirited turns or straight line pulls... Not guessing, just asking for more observations as it can hone in more what may be causing it....
Interesting. I have not noticed any pull. It seems to track straight.
Following up on this issue I've had for a while. After extensive conversations with you all and even reaching out to ZFDoc...nothing!
I decided to get under the car yesterday to ensure the batwing is tight enough and look for rub points. Nothing obvious!
While lowering the car, I laid eyes on the bump stops and their distance to the top of the knuckles. I put some grease on the top of the knuckles and took the car for some aggressive driving. Sure enough, the grease had transferred to the bump stops.
Bottom line: After all I've done to this car because of the "thud", it turns out that the most likely problem is the suspension bottoming out.
I don't have regrets about freshening up the suspension on a nearly 30-year-old car.
No, not really. The suspension is squatting to the point of hitting the bump stop. Any car would do exactly the same when it bottoms out. It doesn't help the rear end is lowered on this car.
My point here is that people who may have a solid thud in the rear suspension may want to consider the bump stop as the culprit.
Well its all going to be a guess until you pull it apart. The center pin bore of the carrier is famous for wearing out. So when you are stopped and there is slack in the driveline, when you accelerate the pin hits the bore. Its loud and you can feel it in the seat when it happens. An auto is worse at hiding than a manual trans and in a auto it is really bad going from Drive to reverse or back again. There is no fix for it except to replace the carrier.
Well its all going to be a guess until you pull it apart. The center pin bore of the carrier is famous for wearing out. So when you are stopped and there is slack in the driveline, when you accelerate the pin hits the bore. Its loud and you can feel it in the seat when it happens. An auto is worse at hiding than a manual trans and in a auto it is really bad going from Drive to reverse or back again. There is no fix for it except to replace the carrier.
I'm fairly confident that's not it. I have busted a differential before and I know the different noises they make.
I'm certain enough I was simply bottoming out that I have moved on from this issue.
Ok then you didn't describe the issue very well. A vette will not bottom simply by letting the clutch out and moving or going to Drive from Park. This is also not really a busted differential, you could drive 50k miles on it and not know it an issue except for sound. We saw a ton of this during rebuild where this was bad and some worse than others. Glad you found your issue though.
Time will tell whether I'm right or whether I'm beating something to oblivion. I have searched under that car and I can't find anything lose or moving around.
I'm back again for this same issue...plus another one.
Issue #1: The clunk/thud or whatever it may be, it is still there. It happened again, this time backing up into my garage. Curious, I took the car back out and did several forward AND reverse starts by bringing the RPMs up to about 2K and slipping the clutch out. Doing this in reverse, I get a double "bang" or thud in quick succession. Forwards, I still get the thud as well. SO, while the car may squat to the point of bottoming out going forward, it would NOT do this going in reverse.
Issue #2: I'm getting this high frequency vibration between 65 and 75 MPH. Pressing the clutch at those speeds REALLY aggravates the vibrations until speed falls below 65. Same happens if I put the transmission in neutral at those speeds...no matter clutch in or out...same VERY noticeable vibration. I flipped the driveshaft 180* thinking I had previously installed it out of phase, but that didn't help. The driveshaft balancing weight at the rear is still there.
- Are these two issues related?
- Is the diff carrier on its way out as suggested by J.Abbott?
- Did replacing both u-joints throw the balance off on the driveshaft?
Since car is lowered half shaft working angle can be an issue setting up vibration along with rear knuckles hitting bump stops. Try tightening rear spring bolts and raise back of car a 1/2 or so. Count the turns so you can reset rear body height. Noises are nearly always trial and error unless their is obvious contact witness marks.
I've watched the vid 10 times. I can't tell anything other than there is a 'clunk' that seems abnormal to me.
The way I diagnose what may be "loose" is to compare what is moving (that shouldn't be moving) to things that aren't moving. In that vid, everything is moving the same amount.
I assUme that the camera was placed on the ground under the car, then the car pushed fore and aft, correct? Was the hand brake set (there is no rotation of the axle shaft)? If all = YES, then I'd be looking at the dog-bone bushings. Cheers.
I've watched the vid 10 times. I can't tell anything other than there is a 'clunk' that seems abnormal to me.
The way I diagnose what may be "loose" is to compare what is moving (that shouldn't be moving) to things that aren't moving. In that vid, everything is moving the same amount.
I assUme that the camera was placed on the ground under the car, then the car pushed fore and aft, correct? Was the hand brake set (there is no rotation of the axle shaft)? If all = YES, then I'd be looking at the dog-bone bushings. Cheers.
A bit more context on the video:
- Rear up in the air with wheels on
- Parking brake disengaged
- Tranny in 1st gear
- Camera on the floor facing up, just to the right of the diff
I didn't use the parking brake and instead used 1st gear so I could rotate the wheels.
I would agree with you, there seems to be an abnormal amount of clunk in the diff, regardless of the normal slack in the drivetrain.
Could this be the reason for the banging I'm hearing going forward and reverse?
Could this be the cause for this newfound vibration that feels like the driveshaft is out of balance?
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