When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey everyone I'm new here to the forum.
I just bought a 1985 Corvette and I need to get it safetied. I need the horns to work for that, and they currently don't. I already have 2 brand new horns since the old ones didn't work at all when connected directly to 12 V. I also got a new relay since the old one didn't seem to work either. After installing everything and pushing the horn button I heard the new horn relay click. It clicked every time I pressed the button (pushed the button around 10 times) before it ceased to make any more noise. Later I tried again and the relay only made a buzzing noise, then eventually no noise at all. Never have the horns sounded when I pressed the button. What could be the issue here?
Thank you I will do this.
However, my brand new relay seemed to stop working suddenly. Before I can test the horn wires the relay needs to send the signal right? Or am I wrong about this?
Yes the end result is voltage at the end just like turning on a light, also try to horn in different wheel positions you might have dead spots on the horn plate (corrosion or lost contact)
Set off the Alarm. If the horn honks, it is in the steering column connections, button contacts or the ground connection at the flexible "rag joint" where the column connects to the steering rack.
Remove the horn button assembly. Short the single wire connection to a good known ground like the lighter shell. If the horn honks, short the single wire connection to the steering wheel. If no horn, or your "buzzing", the steering shaft is not grounded at the steering rack coupling.
Set off the Alarm. If the horn honks, it is in the steering column connections, button contacts or the ground connection at the flexible "rag joint" where the column connects to the steering rack.
Remove the horn button assembly. Short the single wire connection to a good known ground like the lighter shell. If the horn honks, short the single wire connection to the steering wheel. If no horn, or your "buzzing", the steering shaft is not grounded at the steering rack coupling.
I appreciate the response; however, If these alarms are an anti-theft deterrent system, that wasn't yet installed in my 1985 Corvette
I appreciate the response; however, If these alarms are an anti-theft deterrent system, that wasn't yet installed in my 1985 Corvette
Just give it a try because I can swear that as part of my Prep times of cars in 84/85 and some, that an open the windows set the locks wait for the lights to go out reach in manual (slide) unlock the door and open. Because I think you do have a Basic Alarm
All C4 have a Universal Theft Deterrent system. An "alarm" that when set will honk the horn if a door or the hatch is opened.
Open a window. (So you don't lock the keys in the car, and can reach in.)
Open the door. SECURITY light should be flashing. (Indicates that system is active and responsive to the open door.)
Lock the doors with the power door locks. (SECURITY light should go SOLID- ON.)
Close the door. After a few seconds, the SECURITY light should go OFF. (Indicates the UTD is armed.)
Reach in through the open window and unlock the door using the MANUAL un-lock slider.
Open the door. Horn should honk at a 1Hz rate. (If it does not, repeat the steps being sure you use the manual slider, not the power unlock, as power unlock dis-arms the UTD.)
Silence the alarm by turning the top of either outside door key towards the rear of the car.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If the alarm module can operate the horn relay and the horns, the horn button should be able to as well. There are two other diagnostic tests in that post you blew off that suggest how to figure out if it is the horn button itself or the ground for the horn button.
All C4 have a Universal Theft Deterrent system. An "alarm" that when set will honk the horn if a door or the hatch is opened.
Open a window. (So you don't lock the keys in the car, and can reach in.)
Open the door. SECURITY light should be flashing. (Indicates that system is active and responsive to the open door.)
Lock the doors with the power door locks. (SECURITY light should go SOLID- ON.)
Close the door. After a few seconds, the SECURITY light should go OFF. (Indicates the UTD is armed.)
Reach in through the open window and unlock the door using the MANUAL un-lock slider.
Open the door. Horn should honk at a 1Hz rate. (If it does not, repeat the steps being sure you use the manual slider, not the power unlock, as power unlock dis-arms the UTD.)
Silence the alarm by turning the top of either outside door key towards the rear of the car.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If the alarm module can operate the horn relay and the horns, the horn button should be able to as well. There are two other diagnostic tests in that post you blew off that suggest how to figure out if it is the horn button itself or the ground for the horn button.
Oh boy, I guess this is the part where I say my power locks don't work at all. Locks can't lock/unlock manually either. Actuators continuously click, I assume they're stuck, and buttons don't do anything either. But that's a whole other thing I gotta deal with later as I don't think it's necessary for a safety test.
It was a good suggestion that would rapidly zero-in on the horn problem. The suggestion obviously won't work for your situation.
You can still try the two tests at the single wire connection for the horn button.
I tested the grounds where the horns would be connected to, as well as the ground inside the steering wheel they all are good. I don't know what's up with the relay then. Maybe my horn contact wire isn't properly connected down far enough or making a good ground contact there
I looked at the fuse. 10 amp fuse hasn't been blown so that's good. The brand new relay was clicking initially, then it started to buzz, now nothing. Still the horns never sounded at any point, but that's an easy solve since the 12V travels directly from the relay to the horns. The issue gotta be somewhere in the dash/steering wheel