Try Try Try again (starting prob)
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore MD
Try Try Try again (starting prob)
There was a short posting about this some time ago. For me, the problem appeared and then went away for a month. This week it's been back with a vengeance. It usually starts on the 2nd try. But today, this is how it went.
Key in ignition...Turn to Start...<click>...nothing
Key in ignition...Turn to Start...<click>...nothing
Repeat 5x
Key in ignition...Turn to Start...starts up
No jumper cables involved. It just decided to start after multiple tries. I prolly wouldn't have gone on like I did except it's done this crap before. It looks like I'm just gonna replace the starter at this point, but what in the heck would do something like this? Solenoid failing?
Jim
Key in ignition...Turn to Start...<click>...nothing
Key in ignition...Turn to Start...<click>...nothing
Repeat 5x
Key in ignition...Turn to Start...starts up
No jumper cables involved. It just decided to start after multiple tries. I prolly wouldn't have gone on like I did except it's done this crap before. It looks like I'm just gonna replace the starter at this point, but what in the heck would do something like this? Solenoid failing?
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,818
Likes: 2
From: Alive and well in Burlington NC
Re: Try Try Try again (TealBlueEyes)
I think your VATS is giving you a problem. Your ignition key contains a small piece of metal held in place by plastic. This has a certain resistance and it must match the resistance stored in the computer memory. If it matches, you start. If not, you don't. There may be some build up of oil and dirt on the key that prevents it from showing the accurate value when inserted. Clean the ignition key (soap and water) and give it a try. Post back with results.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore MD
Re: Try Try Try again (Steel Blue 91)
I'm aware of the VATS, but I'd all but ruled it out since:
- I do hear a clicking (solenoid engaging or trying to?) which I didn't think would happen if VATS was unhappy
- Once in a while the engine will make a half turn sounding much like a discharged battery.
Maybe I have 2 different problems. It's very bizarre. Still, thanks for the input. I'll give it a try.
Jim
[Modified by TealBlueEyes, 3:01 PM 2/7/2003]
- I do hear a clicking (solenoid engaging or trying to?) which I didn't think would happen if VATS was unhappy
- Once in a while the engine will make a half turn sounding much like a discharged battery.
Maybe I have 2 different problems. It's very bizarre. Still, thanks for the input. I'll give it a try.
Jim
[Modified by TealBlueEyes, 3:01 PM 2/7/2003]
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
Re: Try Try Try again (TealBlueEyes)
I assume you have done the obvious; cleaned the battery connections and the battery ground?....And the battery holds a charge.
[Modified by ittlfly, 2:09 PM 2/7/2003]
[Modified by ittlfly, 2:09 PM 2/7/2003]
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 1
From: Norcross GA
Re: Try Try Try again (ittlfly)
Like you said, if it goes Click, the VATS is not your problem.
Problem is a bad connection somewhere. Typical culpret: solenoid failing, bad battery + connection, bad starter connection, bad battery ground connection.
Problem is a bad connection somewhere. Typical culpret: solenoid failing, bad battery + connection, bad starter connection, bad battery ground connection.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque NM
Re: Try Try Try again (ZylaRace)
Classic example of the symptoms of dirty battery connections. Remove, clean, brush, scrape connection points... reattach.
Fifty cents says your problem is solved.
Fifty cents says your problem is solved.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,602
Likes: 48
From: Napa California
Re: Try Try Try again (nrens)
Just a real quick test (you may have already tried) check your charging system with a volt meter. Not the one in your instrument cluster. With engine off check DC (direct current) voltage at your battery. Should be a little over twelve volts. Then, if you can get your car running, check it again. If the alternator is charging it shoul read somewhere around 13.5 to 14+ volts. Also I think alot of parts stores, Kragen, PepBoy, Autozone, etc., wil test your charging system for free in hopes you will buy parts from them.
Trying to start a car with low voltage can damage your starter.
Not much help I know but an easy test just the same.
Dennis
Trying to start a car with low voltage can damage your starter.
Not much help I know but an easy test just the same.
Dennis
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,699
Likes: 2
From: The Black Hole LA
Re: Try Try Try again (TealBlueEyes)
I didn't notice what year car you had but I know the earlier L98 models had a problem with the exhaust (precats I think) overheating the starter. Of course this would only happen after you had been running the car for a while, although it can damage your starter to the point where it would do it hot or cold.
I am doubting this is your problem I too think it is a bad connection but it is something else to look into after checking all your connections and the problem still persists.
I am doubting this is your problem I too think it is a bad connection but it is something else to look into after checking all your connections and the problem still persists.
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: Try Try Try again (TealBlueEyes)
Its the battery, or cable connections, cable connection to starter, or the starter solenoid. First, remove the battery cables (neg first), clean the cable lugs and battery posts and replace (neg last). When (and if) it clicks, then measure the battery voltage during the next crank try, the battery voltage should not fall below 9.0 volts (even when cranking) or the battery is discharged, at the end of its life, or the cable connections need cleaning. Remove the starter and have it tested or take it apart and look at the condition of the starter solenoid contacts. There are two windings on the starter solenoid, a large diameter wire coil to initially pull the pinion gear into the flywheel ring gear and a smaller diameter wire coil that is switched to after the pinion gear is engaged. You may have burned contacts that supply current through the large wire coil and doesn't allow a reliable connection, so the starter does not have a full stroke and allow the starter motor to get switched on. Either replace the starter solenoid or the starter.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 17,103
Likes: 39
From: stop the fun suckers
Re: Try Try Try again (jfb)
If your battery is in good shape (which it is if its starting on the second or third try) this soudns to me like a bad starter... R&R the starter and your good to go.. when you take it off places like AutoZone and the likes will test it for you.. good luck!