I have a pretty solid 96 that I bought as an engine/trans donor for another project and would like to convert the 96 to a solid axle/LS swap and make a drag car. I found some info on swapping to a solid axle searching this forum, but not enough to move forward. What would be a good rear end to swap into the 96, and what type of suspension? I have good fabrication skills, but don’t really have enough knowledge in this area to even know where to start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Im thinking about doing the same thing

whats crazy is if you go to the f body site you will find 3rd gen guys going all gaga about taking out their solid axle and swapping in a c4’s IRS.

its like everybody wants what they dont have.

if someone knows a cheap way to do solid axle conversion, id like to hear

There was some guy here who made some bolt in solid axle for c4’s, but another user rumour’d it used ‘bolts’ hanging off the rear sway bar - no thanks.

 

A lot of this depends on how much money you want to throw at it. If you wanted to swap something in on a budget but is still very strong then the Ford 8.8 is the way to go. Best part is if you destroy it you can just go to a salvage yard and grab another one. They made those in both solid and IRS. Also posi or open and disk and drum. They even made them with a wide range of gear ratios. The C3 guys have been swapping both versions in for years now. When I kill my Dana 44 I will probably look into a 8.8 IRS for mine.

 

There was a member ski down it that made a solid axle conversion but I don't know if he is still around.

 

8.8 is definitely the way to go. I've put big power through a mildly built one.
By mild, I mean stock fox body housing, Eaton Truetrac, 31 spline Moser axles, aluminum diff cover, and 800whp. I never had any problems with it.
I'd recommend 4 link or ladder bars. You'll need some fabrication experience, as there's going to be a lot of welding.

 

Someone had a C4 for sale cheap on FB Marketplace, had a nice solid axle setup, dark blue car with automatic, found it:

https: // www. facebook .com/ marketplace /item/1220985112470995/

 

The biggest drawback for the 8.8 axle is that the tubes are an odd size (3.25") for the typical 4-link and shock mounting brackets ... you can find 3" stuff everywhere . Otherwise , its well supported by the aftermarket and Ford performance .

 

I bought a Moser 9" housing , axles , and brakes . I gave them all of the dimensions for the 4-link bracket and shock mount locations and had them weld it all . I sourced my own frame brackets and link bars , rod ends , panhard bar , etc . They promised a 2 day turn around and delivered everything to my home within a week of placing the order . I bought a pair of AFCO Racing double adjustable coil over shocks and a nodular chunk off Ebay . The total cost wound up at around $5K installed and fully operational .

 

 

what is the bar hanging under the diff do?

How is handling on the street? And are you still running ABS sensors on the street with it?

i have some expensive decisions to make shortly - wish i could have bought some of your IRS beef up components when you had them for sale - if i decide to stay that route

 

The bar keeps the link brackets in place ... a little side-to-side stiffener . I never drove this car on the street after the 9" install ... I cut the exhaust off just ahead of the diff and put turn downs on the pipes . Routing pipes over the axle would have been challenging . I have a spool in it also ... when I still had the D44 and spooled it , street driving became tedious when making any kind of a turn . Surprisingly , Drag Radials were easier to turn than the Michelin Pilot Sport street tires were . ABS pump has been gone for a long time .

Here is a partial shopping list for those of you considering a live axle conversion ...
The housing ... axles ... bracketry (4-link , shock mounts , frame brackets , locating device (panhard , diagonal link , wishbone , or watts) ... The link bars (tubing , rod ends , threaded inserts , welding) ... Coil over shocks and springs ... brakes ... Lots of grade 8 fasteners , washers , locknuts , etc ... The differential itself with gears (9" has an abundance of ratios available) , LSD carrier (Clutch style posi , locker , spool , True-trac), housing (nodular is stronger than aluminum but aluminum will save around 15#) ... driveshaft ... exhaust mods ... wheels with an offset that works under the vette restraints ... Driveshaft hoop ... Transmission rear support ... transmission (700R4 or 4L60 will not survive long , especially if you have a trans brake)

I paid just under $2500 delivered for the housing (as pictured above) performance axles , complete new rear brakes .
Bought a nodular diff on Ebay with spool and the gear ratio that I wanted for $750 shipped
Afco double adjustable shocks about $800
I probably spent $1500 on all of the misc. hardware , link bars , heim joints , panhard (I am lucky that A.R.T. is in my county) ... don't buy your bolts and nuts from Home Depot or Ace hardware ... find a fastener store .
My wheels 6.5 & 7.5 backspace used with D44 , worked with the dimensions that I provided to Moser
My driveshaft worked also but I had to source a 1310 pinion flange for the 9" (there is a 1310 GM & 1310 Ford)
I know that I forgot some important pieces so keep that in mind when you set your budget ... these are 2021 prices .

 

Diz , I still have 5 or 6 outer stub axles , halfshafts , and bearing hubs for the factory D44 .