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I'm in the middle of replacing the key cylinder on my '89 and since I think I've hit a necessary pause in action with the stupidly brittle plastic carrier snap ring insulator disintegrating into three pieces on me, I'm thinking about finding a way to disable the steering wheel lock function.
I don't know about y'all but that function scares me. I'd rather take the hit to theft deterrance and remove any possibility of my steering wheel locking up on me while driving. Forgive me if I don't have a ton of confidence in GM's engineering of this system...
So what's the best way to do it? Ideally I'd remove the locking pin to achieve a reversible modification. Is this feasible?
Last edited by ThickLizzyVetteswerv; Feb 4, 2025 at 09:14 PM.
Yeah, I was thinking that pulling that pin out seems like the simplest solution, versus cutting down the lock plate or something.
Here's a shot for anyone unfamiliar with the guts of this assembly. Visible here is the notched plate into which the pin inserts. In fron of that is the yellowed c-clip insulator piece that is apparently made of dried snot. This is the "before" shot.
Yeah, I have the new key cylinder installed and yes, it has the "safety" button to prevent accidental key removal but I'd rather eliminate the possibility of the wheel locking entirely, rather than depend on GM's design to prevent it.
The broken plastic piece is unrelated to this venture, aside from the fact that the time I now have to wait to get a new one is affording me the opportunity to mess with the locking wheel function without extending the timeline of this damned job any longer.
Does anyone know how that locking pin comes out? If I pull the key cylinder back out, does that pin simple push through to the backside and fall out?
You need to go deeper into the column to actually remove/defeat. The spring that actually stabilizes and gives movement to the rod might actually rely on the pin to position it properly for cylinder pawl and rod to ignition switch to function. You're hell bent on trying to defeat things that ain't creating any misery! How much do you need to 'bust' to be happy?
Here's an exploded tutorial that might educate you. It's NOT a Corvette column but it's very educational.
I'm definitely not hell bent on this. In fact, I decided I was out as soon as I read "deeper into the column." That ain't happening right now. Maybe some day when this isn't my daily driver but right now I really just want to get back on the road.
It does seem now like omitting the locking plate might be the simplest way to go, though. I don't think it performs any other function. Maybe replaced with a washer, since the C-clip does push against it. Oh well--not a concern right now..
When I was in middle school, one of my teachers told us a story about some kids who were out joyriding and the driver was speeding and scaring the others so the passenger reached over and yanked the keys out of the ignition. The steering wheel locked up, they wrapped themselves around a telephone pole, and everyone in the car died.
Lock plate orientates and locates the cancelling cam I believe, loads the spring for upper travel. Just a washer I wouldn't think would get the job done.
The story you were told if true is certainly very sad.
And, wouldn't you know it, what's the car they give as an example of unintentional wheel lockages resulting in recalls? Of course.. the Chevy C5 Corvette.
I have a spare column from an '85 so I'm going to tear it down and if the lock ring is intact, I'm going to cut its notches off and use it on my car.
And, wouldn't you know it, what's the car they give as an example of unintentional wheel lockages resulting in recalls? Of course.. the Chevy C5 Corvette.
I have a spare column from an '85 so I'm going to tear it down and if the lock ring is intact, I'm going to cut its notches off and use it on my car.
That should work and much better idea than a washer. The plate is part #'d the same '84 - '89/
Yep, I just got my spare column apart and found that its plate is indeed identical. A lot rustier, actually. Also, this piece looks, sounds, and feels like it's hardened so this could turn out to be a real chore.
The horn contact ring/cancelling cam has the same flat on it as the locking ring so it would stay put on the shaft without the plate in place but they do interlock and I assume this is to provide extra rigidity to the horn contact, which makes sense. Another nudge toward retaining the ring and cutting the notches off.
This is what scope creep looks like, folks! But the plastic piece that broke on my car was also broken on the spare column so I will have to order a new one and wait for it for sure.
And, wouldn't you know it, what's the car they give as an example of unintentional wheel lockages resulting in recalls? Of course.. the Chevy C5 Corvette.
I have a spare column from an '85 so I'm going to tear it down and if the lock ring is intact, I'm going to cut its notches off and use it on my car.
Completely different system on a C5 and that was, IMHO, a **** design from the start.
I think it's safe to say it was a **** system, yeah! GM really doesn't deserve to be in business after a thing like that. But.. the General gets what the General wants.
The 1986 4+3 model has the cable to only be able to pull the key when in reverse, so when swapping transmissions, I removed he cable. The key is essentially stuck in the ignition, but under the steering column there a small lever remaining that I can turn to remove it. I feel this is adequate to keep the steering wheel from going into lock accidentally, but it would be nice to have a simple disable process for the lock.
I had a 2000 Mustang that was a part time track car back in the Corner-Carvers days, and I was able to remove the steering wheel lock; can't remember exactly, but it was a common well known process documented on C-C I'm sure. I don't think this is helpful, sorry, but there may be something easy, low risk, perhaps a 3D printed piece to fit into the slots of the spur.
The 1986 4+3 model has the cable to only be able to pull the key when in reverse, so when swapping transmissions, I removed he cable. The key is essentially stuck in the ignition, but under the steering column there a small lever remaining that I can turn to remove it. I feel this is adequate to keep the steering wheel from going into lock accidentally, but it would be nice to have a simple disable process for the lock.
I had a 2000 Mustang that was a part time track car back in the Corner-Carvers days, and I was able to remove the steering wheel lock; can't remember exactly, but it was a common well known process documented on C-C I'm sure. I don't think this is helpful, sorry, but there may be something easy, low risk, perhaps a 3D printed piece to fit into the slots of the spur.
I just yanked out the cable from my 87 4+3. The steering wheel lock is definitely still active so removing the reverse/park cable will not help out the steering wheel lock situation. Not that you were saying it would, just adding more confirmation.
Interestingly, my key now goes in and out just fine with the cable removed. I think I put the rod in the column in the reverse/park position so that is why I am not having an issue.
Steering Wheel Lock DISABLE
