C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1995 C4 LT1 Cold and Warm Throttle Issue

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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 11:25 AM
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Default 1995 C4 LT1 Cold and Warm Throttle Issue

Hello, 1st post and first corvette. I've had this 1995 LT1 with the 5.7 (P) and 4 speed automatic for only 2 months now. When I got it the RPM where high at around 1500-2000 but I drove it the hour home with no throttle issues. I replaced the IAC and did the reset procedure in the FSM (pedal and key on/off steps). It lowered the RPM a little but not all the way so I replaced the TPS as the factory one was reading 1.1v fully closed. On the 95 the holes are not slotted in the TPS so it's can't be adjusted manually but voltage on the new closed is at 0.64v and wide open is 4.55v. It idles like a dream now. So thinking I was golden I then I changed the oil, coolant, cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. I noticed a highly intelligent individual before me mixed the red and green coolant so I took everything apart and scrubbed the tanks and hoses by hand and ran water through the radiator till it ran clear and smooth again and replaced the thermostat. I also replaced the EGR manifold check valve and a couple old cracked 5/32 tubes and the hose that runs to the EVAP canister purge valve as it was really squishy and tattered and after two test runs here's what it's doing:

cold start-touching pedal bogs out the engine and stalls if held in, will return to normal idle if let up on gas immediately. If I let it warm up without touching pedal for a couple minutes it drives fantastic until:

Engine temp goes above 185 Deg F then it starts bogging out when gas pedal pressed at 2500-3000 RPM (barely noticeable hesitation), then worse (car shaking stutter) at 200 Deg F and 2000+RPM and 5 minutes later begins bogging out at any RPM range and threatening to stall even with no pedal. I barely limped it home last night. No check engine light or warning lights all gauges are reading within the middle or the sweep.

I can't find anyone around me with a Tech 1 which the FSM says to use for the 1995 to relearn TPS which is why I checked voltage. It does have an OBDII port and I used my buddies Autel 808B bi-directional scanner but it only goes back to 1996 so I couldn't use the relearn TPS function on it or view the live data.

I'm gonna replace plugs and wires this weekend and some leaky oil gaskets around the pan but before I start replacing coolant temp sensors, O2 Sensors, MAF sensors, egr valves etc. I was wondering if anyone had any experience or knew what scanners worked on a 1995 with an OBDII port?

Thanks in Advance!

Last edited by raymondlee306; Mar 12, 2025 at 11:36 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2025 | 12:01 PM
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Default no need for odb reader

unplug your battery and let the ecm reset on its own, should then take about 50 miles of driving for the ecm to adjust to your setting, also modifying the ecm is very simple for anyone to do, https://ecmhack.com/ should be able to find the original ecm file here. but to me your problems sound more of a dying optimispark, I have replaced 3 of these until i learned not to buy china junk , anything less than $400 is junk and will fail within 2 years, this one is the best by far https://petrisenterprises.com/, has gone 6 years now and still working
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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 06:53 PM
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OK, sorry it took a while to get back to this post but I finally remember my password. It was the optispark, just wanted anyone who find this thread to know what fixed it for me.\
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