1989 Z51 ZF6, 155k Mi

- As stated, my 89 has killed a lifter. Trying to figure out what my best route is for getting her back on the road. I don't have a whole lot of money to throw at this so I will not be doing a full rebuild. I have good oil pressure still (25-35 psi warm at idle with Valvoline 10w-30). I am suspicious that I have a leaking intake gasket (coolant disappears + there was 0 coolant in the TB when I removed the plenum to do injectors right before the lifter failed). I did blow the throttle body coolant hose off during the same pull that started the lifter tick/knock which seems like a symptom of a blown head gasket, but its also possible that I did not tighten it enough 20 minutes before while getting the intake back together after installing new injectors. Any suggestions on how to narrow down the options for the cooling system issue?

I will be ordering:
16 Melling lifters PN JB2079 @ $184.40
TPIS L98 Super cam
+ gaskets

- I have read that the TPIS cam can run with the stock computer/without a tune. Can anyone confirm that? Would the TPIS cam + 1.6 RR also be okay on the stock tune?

- I have some spare parts lying around including a new timing set (both sprockets and timing chain), a full ARP stud kit, and a high volume oil pump (PN M155HV). If i pull the heads off I will be installing the ARP head studs, and using the new timing set. Is the high volume oil pump going to benefit me in any way? I'm going to have the motor out of the car soon and if its going to help keep this engine going this it would be a good time to install.

- Would I benefit from new bottom end bearings? I cannot afford a true rebuild (getting the block reconditioned/decked/honed) so would it just be better to leave the so far reliable bottom end alone or replace old bearings.

If anyone has suggestions on things to do while I have it apart or edits to my plan I want to hear them all. The best I've done is dirt bike engine rebuilds.

 

I would suggest a plug kit, or a block kit. Even if you can't afford machine work, getting allthe trash and contaminants out of all the passages and from behind the cam bearings should be the goal. That requires removal of the cam bearings, and the 9/16" (IIRC) plug above the oil pump and the plugs in the front and rear of the oil galley (gallery). A set of engine cleaning brushes isn't particularly expensive either.

 

There may be a few metal shavings in there. Did the cam fail as well?

 

Here here….wiped cam lobes are not uncommon on these engines.

 

If the cam is good, no way to tell without pulling the intake, then it is just an intake pull and toss in some new lifters.

So long as the cam is good when you pull it, then I would proceed normally with the cam swap. If it is wiped out, then you will have trash in the oil system. Doesn't mean it grenaded the motor, but its something to look out for.

 

While true, I always thought if good lifters started to stick, it was because there was trash in the engine already.

Until I read this thread.

I wouldn't call "varnish" trash, but if it's that heavy there, what else is hiding in the nooks and crannies?

It's why I still recommend the best possible cleaning, and that requires some disassembly...