U-joint options
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
So yes it was the drivers side inboard joint..and interestingly the stub axle on that side has a tiny bit of play torsional wise. The pass side has zero play in the splines. I had both stub axles out and nothing is wrong or worn ..interesting..rear end had 55k miles on it
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,381
Likes: 2,735
Left side inner is always the hardest hit. Clutch pack sorta cushions the right side. The increased angle pitch of the half-shafts certainly doesn't help. It will be interesting to see your experience here.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
Do you guys think the car being lower (maybe 2inches) is partly to blame? I fairly carefuly dialed in my ride height to being as low as was possible without bottoming out on things and have it aligned at that height. This ride height also seemed best based on autocross testing I did years ago when dialing in the suspension. However if it lessens the u-joint wear I could raise the car up a 1/2in or so. But not sure if the ride height has any effect on the u-joints?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 7,339
Likes: 137
From: WilkesBarre PA
Mines lowered as well. I extended my bump stops a little and run my rear shocks pretty stiff at the track. For best life I believe you should try to keep the shafts all level so there's no binding. Some guys have even raised the *** end up trying and keep them more level. I don't know if it helps or not. I just think all the power is hitting that u-joint first and taking the brunt of the launch. I don't think the grease even matters it's just the blunt force trauma applied.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,381
Likes: 2,735
I wonder if maybe the use of Spicer 1051 lube might aid lubrication and extend life? This appears to likely be same/similar to the GM product used for slip-yoke spline lubrication. If you've a Spicer Drive-Line shop in the area maybe it's worth the effort.
https://spicerparts.com/parts/lubric...mium-synthetic
https://spicerparts.com/parts/lubric...mium-synthetic
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
I wonder if maybe the use of Spicer 1051 lube might aid lubrication and extend life? This appears to likely be same/similar to the GM product used for slip-yoke spline lubrication. If you've a Spicer Drive-Line shop in the area maybe it's worth the effort.
https://spicerparts.com/parts/lubric...mium-synthetic
https://spicerparts.com/parts/lubric...mium-synthetic
That is a really great tip, thank you kindly!
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 1,317
From: LeClaire Iowa
About 7 years ago when I changed the u-joints on my 96 I bought the non greaseable ones. I live on a gravel road. In retrospect I wish I had used the greaseable ones. I don't drive hard when I need the extra strength. Dan
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
I have a gravel driveway. I defiently need the U-joints to be strong with 500+HP and sticky tires + a manual trans...but it seems like the needle bearing are the weak point in the u-joints so, ya we will see if greaseable ones last any longer.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 1,317
From: LeClaire Iowa
I think one of the keys is to give them a small squirt of grease every 6 months or so. If you let them dry out a little and go to grease them sometimes it is only one of the four bearings get grease. The easy one with the shortest path. I learned this lesson on my big lawn tractor. The ones you got look much easier to grease than the ones with the zerk in the middle. Dan
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
I think one of the keys is to give them a small squirt of grease every 6 months or so. If you let them dry out a little and go to grease them sometimes it is only one of the four bearings get grease. The easy one with the shortest path. I learned this lesson on my big lawn tractor. The ones you got look much easier to grease than the ones with the zerk in the middle. Dan
These u-joints on the corvette were replace last May, and had 3000miles on them since then. I think I will likely grease them once a month once I start driving the car in the summer.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 1,317
From: LeClaire Iowa
Since reading this thread I decided to get four u-joints for my 96 and change them in my heated garage next winter. From my research I think I have come to the conclusion that Spicer does not make a u-joint to fit the halfshafts for my 1996 with both the cap coating and a grease zerk. I keep coming up with Spicer 5-3615X which fits and has the cap coating but has no zerk. I guess I have to decide if I want the zerk or cap coating but not both. I thought about contacting Spicer and ask but I can't find a contact email anywhere. Dan
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
Since reading this thread I decided to get four u-joints for my 96 and change them in my heated garage next winter. From my research I think I have come to the conclusion that Spicer does not make a u-joint to fit the halfshafts for my 1996 with both the cap coating and a grease zerk. I keep coming up with Spicer 5-3615X which fits and has the cap coating but has no zerk. I guess I have to decide if I want the zerk or cap coating but not both. I thought about contacting Spicer and ask but I can't find a contact email anywhere. Dan
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 1,317
From: LeClaire Iowa
I was kind of hoping that Spicer had a custom shop where they take a core with a zerk and just swap out the caps with the coated ones. It would take them all of 10 minutes. You only need two coated ones per u-joint. Dan
EDIT: I have a letter to send to Dana Tech. to see what they have to say. That is if they respond.
EDIT: I have a letter to send to Dana Tech. to see what they have to say. That is if they respond.
Last edited by Whaleman; May 4, 2025 at 04:23 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 400
From: DFW TX
I think the main issue is that a 1350 is a truck u-joint meant for driveshafts. Get into high rpm torque production with rapidly changing angles, and the 1350 wasn't really designed for that.
Last edited by Krusty84; May 5, 2025 at 02:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 580
From: Langley BC
I upsized my driveshaft from 1310's to 1350 U-joints and those seem to do ok in that application but I think in the halfshafts they are likely just subjected to too high of load forces. i'm giving the greaseable ones a try and we'll see but I suspect the only true fix is to backhalf the car and redesign the rear suspension to use upper/lower A-arms and a beefy axle/CV joint, which also proabbly means also a different differential too. That's a major project, if anyone wants to pinoneer i'd love to see what you all come up with...