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Hey Guys, So on my LS swapped 88' with sticky 315 tires I'm finding I'm wearing out U-joints pretty fast.
Its been about 5000km/3000miles since I last changed the half-shaft U-joints and when I just checked them the u-joints have play in the caps again, which usually means the needle bearing have turned to dust. I was already using the spicer solid ones and have the vansteel U-joint girldles. My halfshafts are chrome-moly as I broke and aluminim one before. And I've learned the hard way that the u-joints in Higher HP C4's are a weak point/wear point.
Anybody found more durable u-joints beyond the solid spicer ones, that last a little longer with higher HP, sticky tires and modded suspension?
No, and it is a pain in the butt having to change them out so often. Mine don't get loose, they get hot, change color and get too tight for some reason. I have to change them every 1-2 years depending on much I beat on the car.
check dizwiz24's setup-he hammers his drive train pretty hard.
Ya he has a good setup, almost identical to my rear end setup actually. Based on his thread looks like he is just using regular 1350 u-joints on his car also.
I am all ears, but I read a couple years back that we are SOL on this. Spicer makes all of the cold forged solid 1350s, and Strange and others just rebrand them.
I understand the solid u joints, but to not be able to grease them sucks. So I wonder how much grease is in them when new? Probably the least amount possible. Almost looks like yours are dry?
I understand the solid u joints, but to not be able to grease them sucks. So I wonder how much grease is in them when new? Probably the least amount possible. Almost looks like yours are dry?
I took them apart and added lots of quality grease before installing them.
I took them apart and added lots of quality grease before installing them.
Ooops. I read some instructions years back that stated the spicer cups have a carefully measured amount of grease and one should not swap caps when installing and shouldn't, therefore, add any grease. When pulling caps some retain more grease than others is why no swapping of caps. Might help, might not.
Ooops. I read some instructions years back that stated the spicer cups have a carefully measured amount of grease and one should not swap caps when installing and shouldn't, therefore, add any grease. When pulling caps some retain more grease than others is why no swapping of caps. Might help, might not.
No they needed more grease than the stock amount, plus you have to pull the caps off when putting them into the halfshafts anyways and inevitably you lose some grease in the process so you kinda need to add some back in and you can't really over pack them because it would just be pushed back out anyway, just like it is when you add grease to a greaseable u-joint. Its not the grease though guys, this is hitting the design ceiling of C4 rear suspension.
It was only my drivers side u-joints that were trashed, so that kind of rules out the grease thing anyway. I think this is why the C5 went to upper/lower control arm suspension with CV joimt axles.
I think with higher power cars like mine that are making more than double the stock HP you really want solid u-joints for the added strength. It seems the needle bearings are just overloaded. Wish someone (a company) would design a new rear suspension for higher HP as a lot of us with higher HP and ticky tires etc...are having this problem.
At this point though guys, it can't hurt to try the spicer greasable ones since the needle bearing (not the body) are the failure point. I don't really think it will make much difference but I guess I can give greasing it once or twice a season a try and inspect the u-joints again in 3000miles and see if it improves things.
Only reason i brought it up is gimbel bearings now are not greasable (boats). Its a load of crap as out of the box there is like a smear of grease and thats it. Now they have a high failure rate, go figure....
I know the ones i put in my car have the one cap thats greasable with the cone looking grease gun tip. Greased after i installed. Only have 1200 miles on them. But next winter they will get inspected when i put the dana 44 in.
Driver side, inner always turn the needles to dust. Spicer's at least don't break but wear the needles. I've tried so many brands over the years, and the others usually just snap and then cause other damage. After each race I put the car on the lift and ck the u-joints. I think I get 15-20 passes before that one needs replacing. The others are usually fine and get the season and then some out of them. Actually the passenger side are probably 3 years old. I keep them in stock and just consider them a wear item!
Actually now that you said drivers side inner wearing out, the 86 i bought for the dana 44 was parked since 1995. Pretty sure he parked it due to the inner u joint that was destroyed. Ill have to see if itwas drivers side....
So yes it was the drivers side inboard joint..and interestingly the stub axle on that side has a tiny bit of play torsional wise. The pass side has zero play in the splines. I had both stub axles out and nothing is wrong or worn ..interesting..rear end had 55k miles on it