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I have had a problem with my 90 L98 not starting from time to time , lights , horn , radio all fine but turn the key and nothing , not even a click , have tried using another key , played with the automatic shifter , moved and wiggled wires under the hood , checked fused links and have discconected the battery for a few min. and still won't start , leave it alone for 20 minutes and most time fires right up.
I have experienced this maybe 6- 10 times a year , any ideas on a fix would be appreciated , Thanks for your time
:confused: :confused:
If you can hear a relay click behind the center of the dash when you hit the crank position, then VATS is working. If not, I would check your VATS by finding the 2 pin connector on the wires from your steering column that go to the ign sw contacts that make with the key pellet. On my 87 theycome out on the floor from the steering column under the carpet. Unplug the connector and put an ohmeter on the wires from the column with your ign key in. The resistance should be the same as the pellet. If over 10k ohms, then replace the worn ign sw. If the resistance is ok but still no crank, then check the gear selector switch on your gear shift. Starter solenoid power comes from the ign sw through the start enable relay contacts , then through the gear selector switch to the start solenoid.
Thanks for the info , as soon as I can get my wife to leave it home again I will check it out , I do not hear anything when it acts up ! leave it for 20 min. and it usually starts and won't be a problem again for months ! I am thinking of hooking up a hot wire to the solenoid with a starter button under the hood so we don't get stuck :confused:
had the same thing. It's you VATS. Go to the dealer and plop down 32 bucks for a new key and you'll be :steering: trouble free again. If that doest work you may need to look at a work ignition switch.
The ECM will not pulse the injectors if it doesn't get a signal from VATS, so your starter hot wire will allow you to crank, but it will not start. You can bypass the VATS until you can schedule an ign sw replacement by jumping a fixed resistor the same value as your pellet across the wires going to the passenger side (VATS module). Don't do this permanently because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ign. VATS prevents this .
Sorry for my ignorance :eek: , But what does VATS stand for :confused: ? is this the chip in the Key ? if not what is VATS ? I have no problem in replacing , just would like to know what to replace ! I have the 2 Keys that came with the car plus a new one for a spare and have tried all 3 keys and nothing ! Was thinking the hot wire would narrow down the problem ! when it won't start , this only happens maybe twice a month :sad: and so far after 20 to 30 min. it starts and may not be a problem for the next 3 months ! Hard to fix if not broken
:rolleyes:
Vehicle Anti Theft System (VATS). When it won't start, thats when you break out the ohmeter and check to see if the contacts in the ignition switch are making with the key pellet. If they are, then pull up the console and check the switch on the gear lever to see if it is making connection. Most likely your no crank problem resides in those two places. Find out where the two wires from your steering column come out now so that you can do the test when it fails next month. The wires go over to the VATS module which measures the resistance and reports to the ECM that the resistance is correct and the ECM then can pulse the injectors. Someone can still steal your car, but they will have to flat bed it or tow it.
Ok thanks a bunch , that was my guess but I have learned the hard way not to butt- u -me :cheers:
Well their is one more posibility then that I did not mention , someone had added an additional Anti Theft System to my car that did all kinds of neat stuff , flashing lights , remote door opener and what ever , it was unhooked and I hooked it back up worked great until we went out to dinner one night and it would not let us out of the car , drove home and good thing the top was down or might still be in it :rolleyes: I disconnected the hot wire but now you got me thinking , something in that system could be causing the problem it it is time I removed it !!!
My problem with these symptoms was the ignition switch. The dealer tried to do the shotgun method( replace everything until you HIT the target). They replaced the little box behind the radio??? Then they replaced the starter, a few relays, and then I said STOP!!! I insisted that they replace the ignition. I refused to pay for all the misdiagnoses and only paid for the switch... that was 2 years ago...
PS. I went to your site. I was unable to post a sig in your guessbook. Good luck with your vette
I have changed them in much older cars but not up to speed on the newer stuff , did you have to change the tumbler and key or is the switching mechanisim seperate ?
I am sorry Joe. They did replace the ignition switch (under the hood) My final issue came down to my Ignition on the steering wheel(That was when I insisted that this part be replaced). That was when my problem.was solved. but since 8 things were replaced. I cannot say for sure what was the exact cause.
I had the exact same problem with my 90. It was the Neutral Saftey Switch. When it doesnt start, hold the key in the start position and shake the shifter. Sometimes I had to shift it back and forth from reverse to park a few times (without holding the key in the start position) and then tried the shifter shake and it started right up. It took me 3 years to find the answer, I hope you find your answer, whatever it is, in less time then 3 years.
Well I guess we will just start replacing things and hope for the best ! The problem started 5 years ago and only does it once in a blue moon , usually were I can not check it out , wait 20 min. or so and it starts fine , then might not happen again for months , " hard to find the problem when everything works " :confused: Sure am glad for the forum though some great tips and I have some good ideas where to look now :seeya