Brakes?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 768
Likes: 24
From: Valrico Florida
Brakes?
1985 Z51. So I just changed my master cylinder due to it leaking out the back (common problem) and while I was at it I changed to the Russel SS lines. Brakes are bled but they are still pretty much scary in my opinion... there is no brake on a dime here. I do love the progressive feel of the brakes into corners and what not but I fear for my life If I really had to emergency brake on the freeway for example.
I don't want to change the wheels, I love the factory wheels.
I am not sure what pads I put on it. I would have put them on back in 2014 and I am sure I went with a cheap low dust option.
I don't think the booster is failing, not making any strange sounds or anything. Is there something else I maybe should check? Should I try some pads with more bite maybe? Do pads go old? These pads are most likely 10 years old.
I don't want to change the wheels, I love the factory wheels.
I am not sure what pads I put on it. I would have put them on back in 2014 and I am sure I went with a cheap low dust option.
I don't think the booster is failing, not making any strange sounds or anything. Is there something else I maybe should check? Should I try some pads with more bite maybe? Do pads go old? These pads are most likely 10 years old.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 768
Likes: 24
From: Valrico Florida
Just did the basic booster check. Pumped pedal with car off and brake pedal firmed up and got rock hard pretty much instantly. Went back to normal after starting the car with foot still on brake.
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,371
Likes: 2,736
something is up in your system. my 84,85, brakes are actually amazing. running whatever the cheapest pad is i can find.
if they feel “woody” then power brake booster (hard with no stopping power)
if they are spongy then bench bleed the master
rotors are irrelevant.
rebleed everything using the 1man bleed technique with a hose and a 2litre pop bottle.
your brakes should be awesome, and can even be used for autocross and initial track days (with motul 660 fluid and appropriate pads). i realize you’re not doing that, saying it to demonstrate that c4 brakes are quite good actually when the system is operating properly.
if they feel “woody” then power brake booster (hard with no stopping power)
if they are spongy then bench bleed the master
rotors are irrelevant.
rebleed everything using the 1man bleed technique with a hose and a 2litre pop bottle.
your brakes should be awesome, and can even be used for autocross and initial track days (with motul 660 fluid and appropriate pads). i realize you’re not doing that, saying it to demonstrate that c4 brakes are quite good actually when the system is operating properly.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 768
Likes: 24
From: Valrico Florida
So I did bench bleed and then I started at the passenger rear changed the line to SS, bled out all air and then moved through each corner after that with the same process.
So it sounds like I should bleed again? Is a gravity bleed sufficient or should I bust out my bleeder kit. It seemed to me a gravity bleed worked just fine.
So it sounds like I should bleed again? Is a gravity bleed sufficient or should I bust out my bleeder kit. It seemed to me a gravity bleed worked just fine.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 768
Likes: 24
From: Valrico Florida
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Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9,371
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bleeding is the easiest thing in the world. watch chris fixes one man bleeder technique.
all these vacuum bleed techniques and fancy equipment is completely unnecessary and even introduces more questions as vacuum frequently brings air in the bleeder nipple threads. completely totally unnecessary.
i bleed 3 track cars and maintain several other cars all in under 20 minutes per car with zero fancy equipment. get a cheap 2l cola bottle dump out the cola and drill a hole in the cap.
i enjoy setting my video up and record what comes out. very easy to see when you have 100% clean fluid.
all these vacuum bleed techniques and fancy equipment is completely unnecessary and even introduces more questions as vacuum frequently brings air in the bleeder nipple threads. completely totally unnecessary.
i bleed 3 track cars and maintain several other cars all in under 20 minutes per car with zero fancy equipment. get a cheap 2l cola bottle dump out the cola and drill a hole in the cap.
i enjoy setting my video up and record what comes out. very easy to see when you have 100% clean fluid.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; Jun 17, 2025 at 09:30 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 768
Likes: 24
From: Valrico Florida
bleeding is the easiest thing in the world. watch chris fixes one man bleeder technique.
all these vacuum bleed techniques and fancy equipment is completely unnecessary and even introduces more questions as vacuum frequently brings air in the bleeder nipple threads. completely totally unnecessary.
i bleed 3 track cars and maintain several other cars all in under 20 minutes per car with zero fancy equipment. get a cheap 2l cola bottle dump out the cola and drill a hole in the cap.
i enjoy setting my video up and record what comes out. very easy to see when you have 100% clean fluid.
all these vacuum bleed techniques and fancy equipment is completely unnecessary and even introduces more questions as vacuum frequently brings air in the bleeder nipple threads. completely totally unnecessary.
i bleed 3 track cars and maintain several other cars all in under 20 minutes per car with zero fancy equipment. get a cheap 2l cola bottle dump out the cola and drill a hole in the cap.
i enjoy setting my video up and record what comes out. very easy to see when you have 100% clean fluid.
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
You need to adjust the booster push rod to the new master cylinder. I always adjust mine to tight .010 for a street car, 05 if I'm racing the car, or you want a really touchy pedal. It's the same procedure if you replace the booster. You can find YouTube videos for the procedure, it's pretty easy and far easier with another person manning the pedal.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 875
Likes: 76
I believe they sell a tool that lets you more easily adjust the pushrod to the correct depth.
One tip to keep brake fluid from leaking while you've got it cracked open. Get a board and towel, and put it in front of the driver's seat with towel to protect the plastic of the seat, move the seat forward so the brake pedal barely depresses. That closes off the ports in the master cylinder and keeps the brake fluid from draining out while cracked open.
One tip to keep brake fluid from leaking while you've got it cracked open. Get a board and towel, and put it in front of the driver's seat with towel to protect the plastic of the seat, move the seat forward so the brake pedal barely depresses. That closes off the ports in the master cylinder and keeps the brake fluid from draining out while cracked open.
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 3
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 875
Likes: 76
Brake Booster Push Rod Adjustment Tool https://a.co/d/gySM0kP
Last edited by colter; Jun 18, 2025 at 06:17 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 768
Likes: 24
From: Valrico Florida
Took the master back off and performed another bench bleed.... no air. Did a Vacuum bleed... and yes, way too much air comes in through the threads with this method. Followed up the vacuum with a quick gravity, let about 2 inches of fluid fill the tube and then cut off, no air at all seen. Replacing the 2 rear shocks tomorrow and then will test drive. Fingers crossed. If the brakes are no better I might pick up some speed bleeders and then do a 1 man using the brake pedal.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 875
Likes: 76
Took the master back off and performed another bench bleed.... no air. Did a Vacuum bleed... and yes, way too much air comes in through the threads with this method. Followed up the vacuum with a quick gravity, let about 2 inches of fluid fill the tube and then cut off, no air at all seen. Replacing the 2 rear shocks tomorrow and then will test drive. Fingers crossed. If the brakes are no better I might pick up some speed bleeders and then do a 1 man using the brake pedal.
Next time I’ll get a pressure flusher. Will need to see if I can find good regular bleeder screws. As the bleeder screws from parts store rust out and the nut rounds off on them.
