C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brakes?

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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 02:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 84wuzmy1st
I feel like that is what I did. I did a simple gravity bleed, nothing fancy.

i think i forgot to mention u use the pedal to bleed. not gravity. cheers
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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 03:06 PM
  #22  
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Old pads can glaze. Take a flat file and rough the faces a little. If they're shiny, this may help, after you're certain of your master cyl pushrod and bleeding the system. Those should take precedent anyways 👍
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Old Jun 22, 2025 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Vets-Vet
This may sound stupid, but doesn't the simple 2 man technique have better merrits than all these gadgets and tricks ????
That's the way that I've always had the most success.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 12:06 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Natty C
That's the way that I've always had the most success.
A work around to that is use a board and move the seat forward to depress the pedal. If you have electric seat. I use that method to bleed out the air at the master when connecting the lines after bench bleeding the master.
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Old Jun 23, 2025 | 01:06 PM
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Thank for that link, I am going to get this because I am pretty sure mine is too short.
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Old Aug 3, 2025 | 07:06 PM
  #26  
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Ok. Brakes are properly bled. Put on Russel Speed Bleeders and did it myself. Took the car out. My best guess is I just don't like the pads.

WAGNER MX216/217 (Economy) ThermoQuiet; Semi-Metallic

I bought and put them on back in 2013.

Are Hawk HPS still the way to go for the street?

I should mention I do like the modulation of the Wagners, they don't act like an on/off switch and lock up the tires... I just feel they should have a little more stopping power than they have.

Last edited by 84wuzmy1st; Aug 3, 2025 at 07:11 PM.
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