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So we decided while we were having issues with the starter that it's time to go nornal top-post for my '94. So I found a suitable battery and now I'm working on the cables, starting with the positive cable. Managed to loosen the fusebox connections and the strap/clamp near the brake booster. On the underside I noted a little bracket, close to where the dustshield goes. But it seems there must be more brackets somewhere that I have yet to find. I have Chilton's repair manual but it seems kind of useless for this. Any hints, ideas and pictures on the process of replacing battery cables are welcome.
What choice for a 'top post' battery have you made? Group designation and is it AGM, wet or maybe newer Lithium?
There's some vendors who supply specialty fabricated cables and I'd certainly utilize one of them for a solution. An 'off the shelf' I can't see as being a solution.
What choice for a 'top post' battery have you made? Group designation and is it AGM, wet or maybe newer Lithium?
There's some vendors who supply specialty fabricated cables and I'd certainly utilize one of them for a solution. An 'off the shelf' I can't see as being a solution.
Are the brackets that interest you #'s 20 & 24?
It's a standard lead acid battery from one of our nation-wide chains for now, might go for a more expensive option later but this one matched the specs for the sidepole battery that was in the car. We will be assembling our own cable as it needs to be longer (switched sides between positive and negative terminals vs the sidepole battery)
#20 and #24 are the fusebox brackets, right? They seem alright where they are as I managed to get the covers off and undo the connections to the positive terminal (since the positive cable is a molded 3-to-1 thing). Where I am stumped is where the positive cable goes behind the engine and just kind of disappears in the mess. Looking from below, it does a similar disappearing act going up next to the transmission
I'd consider a cable from these folks or someone else that could duplicate their fabrication. They can duplicate the smaller gauge links from your supplied specifications. Where are you located? Routing should be pretty straight forward. There are clips and various hardware that attach cable to engine for routing.
Stop by and visit this thread and ask him for thoughts replacing positive cable. His project is a 1995 but it will be the same and he understands. I'm quite sure he would agree with my suggestion for a custom fabricated cable for your install.
I have to confess. When I replaced the positive cable I could not get the hidden clamp. I cut the old one as close as I could on each end. A piece is still in there to this day. Dan
It seems so simple, doesn't it? when he pulls the cable, it does look like there's a second clamp that just wasn't put in place at some point. Unfortunately comments are turned off so can't ask for details.
Replacing battery cables (94 auto)
