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Finally put my 89 l98 zf6 back together after pulling the engine and making various mods (cam, ram clutch conversion, chip from pcm of nc, etc). I havent been able to get it to start since reassembly.
Theres 2 things that are apparent bad signs to me:
1. The timing light does not flash when connected to the #1 spark plug and battery terminals
2. I have 0 fuel pressure. When connecting a gauge it reads 0 and when i press down on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail it barely dribbles fuel.
I have tried jumping the fuel pump, (key on, 12 volts to terminal g of the obd1 port with no results).
Wondering if it is a distributor issue as its a totally new distributor. I have a fuel pump on hand. Any suggestions on where to start dianosing this? I just want to drive it after all these months of work! What can i verify with a multimeter to narrow down issues?
If jumping 12v to G does not make pump run, your pump is dead or problem with wiring at pump.
What distributor you install ?
All connections to dizzy plugged in ?
If jumping 12v to G does not make pump run, your pump is dead or problem with wiring at pump.
What distributor you install ?
All connections to dizzy plugged in ?
Perhaps a bad pump then. It's easy enough to change. Its a cardone unit from oriellys. Looks the same as the acdelco that was in it before. I have taken it apart a few times but im going to put the old ignition module back in and see what happens.
I have tried 2 different coils, caps, and rotors. Forgot to mention that i have seen spark at the plug when i pulled a plug out. It will backfire out of the intake if I spray starting fluid into the plenum. But since the timing light doesn't flash im suspicious of the quality of my spark.
How confident are you about the correct installation of distributor?
I put it together in the same way the old one came apart. Rotors was facing cylinder #1 (which was at tdc).
Update. Installed new Dephi fuel pump. Still no fuel pressure, I can hear a noise from the tank area when jumping from terminal g. Sounds like a fuel pump running.
Update 2. I pulled the pressure line off the top of the tank after letting the pump prime. A tablespoon of fuel drippled out. A leak on the in-tank hanger?
If you hear the pump run, see if it can get fuel to the Schrader valve.
Is there 100% no spark.
Do you have a factory service manual ?
Fuel pressure gauge reads 0. A few drops of fuel come out of the valve when pressed.
I have seen a spark plug fire sitting on the valve cover while cranking. The only symptom of bad spark is the timing light not flashing (it works on other vehicles).
Update 2. I pulled the pressure line off the top of the tank after letting the pump prime. A tablespoon of fuel drippled out. A leak on the in-tank hanger?
Did you try running the pump with the line off the top of the tank? It should gush out. If = no, is there enough fuel in the tank?
If the pump is new, and it is running, there should be pressure.
Is there a chance that the 'jumper hose' between the pump and the metal line split or blew off? The hose used inside the tank where it is immersed is special for this purpose. Usually, new pumps are packaged with a 3" section. Regular fuel hose will deteriorate and rupture in a fairly short period of time and result in no fuel pressure.
One step at a time. Get the fuel pressure issue resolved. Then move to the no spark and possible distributor problems.
Did you try running the pump with the line off the top of the tank? It should gush out. If = no, is there enough fuel in the tank?
If the pump is new, and it is running, there should be pressure.
Is there a chance that the 'jumper hose' between the pump and the metal line split or blew off? The hose used inside the tank where it is immersed is special for this purpose. Usually, new pumps are packaged with a 3" section. Regular fuel hose will deteriorate and rupture in a fairly short period of time and result in no fuel pressure.
One step at a time. Get the fuel pressure issue resolved. Then move to the no spark and possible distributor problems.
Okay using a short piece of fuel line i have 40psi at the fuel out line at the top of the tank. 0 at the fuel rail. The fuel filter is a few months old and the old one i pulled off was very clean inside. Assuming FPR is next on the list?
Edit: if I release pressure, and then cycle the key, the pump does not prime again.
Is it possible that the fuel is getting to rail but your gauge is not seeing it ?
Throwing that out there because my gauge has an adjustable pin that depresses Schrader valve.
If not set right, my gauge would show no pressure.
If the regulator was was not allowing pressure, all the fuel the pump sends would be coming back through return line.
Power pump through G and see if the return line is sending fuel.
The service manual gives a couple of pinch tests to isolate problems.
Have a look in the book 🤓
Is it possible that the fuel is getting to rail but your gauge is not seeing it ?
Throwing that out there because my gauge has an adjustable pin that depresses Schrader valve.
If not set right, my gauge would show no pressure.
If the regulator was was not allowing pressure, all the fuel the pump sends would be coming back through return line.
Power pump through G and see if the return line is sending fuel.
The service manual gives a couple of pinch tests to isolate problems.
Have a look in the book 🤓
I dont think so, pressing the valve down with a screw driver should spray fuel everywhere with the key on. It only releases a few drops. And when disconnecting the fuel lines there is no pressure on either line.
I will check the return line. And dig up my manual
[QUOTE=Ekays;1608928607]Replaced FPR. Now have a stable 42 psi at the rail with key on and cranking. Allright. One step at a time, and fuel pressure is out of the way. Cool.
Occasional backfire out of intake. This a classic symptom of the distributor being installed "180 out".
How do I test if the injectors are even firing/firing consistently? They probably are if the ECM is receiving reference pulses. Here's a quick test for reference pulses. Turn key to RUN. Fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops. Crank engine briefly, stop, leave key in RUN. Fuel pump should again be running for a few seconds and stop. If = yes, the ECM saw reference pulses. Injection is likely also occurring.
Test light STILL does not flash but I can see the spark consistently when plug wire is connected to a plug outside the engine. This indicates (to me) two things. A: There are reference pulses. B: The distributor is not in time.
Im getting lost here. Any suggested tests i can do would be appreciated.
Re-visit the distributor installation.
Remove #1 spark plug. Place your finger over the plug hole and have someone crank the engine in short bursts. When you feel compression, stop cranking. Look at the crankshaft balancer timing marks, rotate the engine by hand CW (observing from the front of the car) (or bump it with the starter) until the marks align.
Remove the distributor cap, the rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug tower. Your symptoms indicate it will be pointing 180 deg the other way, ie be at #6 tower; hence the "180 out". Lift the distributor and reinstall with the rotor tip pointing at #1 tower. It should be close enough to start and fire, use a timing light to set final timing.
Replaced FPR. Now have a stable 42 psi at the rail with key on and cranking. Allright. One step at a time, and fuel pressure is out of the way. Cool.
Occasional backfire out of intake. This a classic symptom of the distributor being installed "180 out".
How do I test if the injectors are even firing/firing consistently? They probably are if the ECM is receiving reference pulses. Here's a quick test for reference pulses. Turn key to RUN. Fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops. Crank engine briefly, stop, leave key in RUN. Fuel pump should again be running for a few seconds and stop. If = yes, the ECM saw reference pulses. Injection is likely also occurring.
Test light STILL does not flash but I can see the spark consistently when plug wire is connected to a plug outside the engine. This indicates (to me) two things. A: There are reference pulses. B: The distributor is not in time.
Im getting lost here. Any suggested tests i can do would be appreciated.
Re-visit the distributor installation.
Remove #1 spark plug. Place your finger over the plug hole and have someone crank the engine in short bursts. When you feel compression, stop cranking. Look at the crankshaft balancer timing marks, rotate the engine by hand CW (observing from the front of the car) (or bump it with the starter) until the marks align.
Remove the distributor cap, the rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug tower. Your symptoms indicate it will be pointing 180 deg the other way, ie be at #6 tower; hence the "180 out". Lift the distributor and reinstall with the rotor tip pointing at #1 tower. It should be close enough to start and fire, use a timing light to set final timing.
I can see the timing mark on the harmonic balancer, the rotor is facing #1, and the #1 piston is at tdc. (Will attach pics) everything seems right on the spark timing aspect.
I connected a multimeter to the pump connector (brown and black wires) and I see 12v when I first turn the key on for a few seconds. Then 0v. Then under cranking there is 12v. After stopping cranking there is 12v for 2 seconds and then 0v. That all seems right.
The spark plug i pulled is brand new and it has some soot on it when all its done is crank, thats probably normal though.
Everything seems to be right. This is frustrating, I need to test my cam!
Rotor facing #1 Thats the top of cylinder #1 And theres the timing mark
I can see the timing mark on the harmonic balancer, the rotor is facing #1, and the #1 piston is at tdc. (Will attach pics) everything seems right on the spark timing aspect.
The crankshaft turns twice (720 deg) for the distributor to turn once (360deg). The marks line up for #1 firing, then 360deg crank later the marks line up for #6 firing.
Read my instructions again to locate TDC firing #1 again. You have to place your finger over the plug hole and feel compression. prior to the marks lining up.
Because of the "occasionally backfires in the intake" I'm pretty sure you have the distributor 180 out. I've had it happen to me.
The crankshaft turns twice (720 deg) for the distributor to turn once (360deg). The marks line up for #1 firing, then 360deg crank later the marks line up for #6 firing.
Read my instructions again to locate TDC firing #1 again. You have to place your finger over the plug hole and feel compression. prior to the marks lining up.
Because of the "occasionally backfires in the intake" I'm pretty sure you have the distributor 180 out. I've had it happen to me.
Okay I felt compression with my finger and everything looks right. I do agree it seems like the spark timing is off. Should the electronic spark control wire be disconnected for an initial start up? Doesn't seem like it would prevent it from starting either way
Perhaps a distributor issue after cam swap
