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Trying to get a good idea on acceptable oil temp, 85 Corvette, minor intake work, long tube headers, full exhaust, tuning it myself. Did a shroud cleaning maybe 6 months ago, temps normally driving will be anywhere from 20-40 ish degrees within coolant temp until I get on it, upgraded liland 2 row larger all aluminum radiator, 180 thermostat, temp will stay around 225-230 at 80 mph, 2400 rpm, when I really get into it "on private roads" up to 120-130 I'll see it get as high as 240 if not more. I've seen it get as high as 258 at steady speeds of 130 or so. I will admit I am running without a knock sensor and tuning by ear for detonation on 91, i don't hear anything anymore after pulling degrees where I needed to on the table, but the temps still get hot. Any advice? Not opposed to throwing a cooler on it, but I figured in some high speed situations the car would be fine without it, not like I'm thrashing it at a track day. For reference this car has all its emissions deleted, so no EGR to cool combustion temperatures.
Trying to get a good idea on acceptable oil temp, 85 Corvette, minor intake work, long tube headers, full exhaust, tuning it myself. Did a shroud cleaning maybe 6 months ago, temps normally driving will be anywhere from 20-40 ish degrees within coolant temp until I get on it, upgraded liland 2 row larger all aluminum radiator, 180 thermostat, temp will stay around 225-230 at 80 mph, 2400 rpm, when I really get into it "on private roads" up to 120-130 I'll see it get as high as 240 if not more. I've seen it get as high as 258 at steady speeds of 130 or so. I will admit I am running without a knock sensor and tuning by ear for detonation on 91, i don't hear anything anymore after pulling degrees where I needed to on the table, but the temps still get hot. Any advice? Not opposed to throwing a cooler on it, but I figured in some high speed situations the car would be fine without it, not like I'm thrashing it at a track day. For reference this car has all its emissions deleted, so no EGR to cool combustion temperatures.
My '84 all stock with all emissions equipment still employed would do the exact same thing! My car would run nice and cool, less than 180°f down the interstate on a hot summer day....but even with Mobil 1 full-synthetic I would observe oil temps that would just climb...250°f-ish+! Supposedly synthetic oil is good to approaching 300°f before break down...but that's WAY too hot IMHO, I don't like the 250°f....My 0.02s worth is that underhood temps are very high and exhaust components being close to the pan and filter doesn't help, everything is tight and doesn't breathe under the hood very well. I can't give you the "fix" yet, as I am currently upgrading basically everything on my car...But when the engine is reinstalled, the oil will be plumbed through an Earl's plate cooler and the exhaust will be wrapped! I also plan to install a removable heat blanket/shield around/over the oil filter (the velcro type like you would put around a starter) My personal opinion is that without a doubt all C4s should have an external (air-cooled) oil cooler! Many will say your oil temps are fine and many run those kind of temps all the time....but I'm in the "that's too hot for my liking" camp! I vote for, add an oil cooler setup! Good luck👍
260 is fine for synthetic if you're beating the snot out of it. My 84 would get to 260 with one spirited on ramp pull and would approach 275-280 on cool days under normal driving. If you're holding 260 that is of no concern. Figure the same oil in your sump is run through turbos at much higher temps with no break down. I wouldn't be worried. Figure most high performance engines in the race world are operating in the mid to upper 200s.
That being said, the fix was an oil cooler. See temps right around coolant now regardless of how hard I beat it.
260 is fine for synthetic if you're beating the snot out of it. My 84 would get to 260 with one spirited on ramp pull and would approach 275-280 on cool days under normal driving. If you're holding 260 that is of no concern. Figure the same oil in your sump is run through turbos at much higher temps with no break down. I wouldn't be worried. Figure most high performance engines in the race world are operating in the mid to upper 200s.
That being said, the fix was an oil cooler. See temps right around coolant now regardless of how hard I beat it.
My Audi A4 has oil temps 10 degrees higher than coolant temps so that math checks out. I believe hot oil and cool water are the secret to power. But for running around, I never liked the idea of running over 220 on coolant temps. Absolutely zero margin for error much higher than that.
/post by not a professional mechanic, just an internet dude
I appreciate the responses from everyone on it, I was having minor detonation issues that I'm now resolving with some timing work in the tables, I've gotten it to where up to 100-110 mph I won't see anything above 225-228 which is def an improvement, I should mention even with oil temps over 240-250, I never saw coolant temps above 200 degrees, I had issues running mobile 1 before due to my ring issues and how much I'd burn, I know im due for a rebuild in the future, but this engine still makes 180 psi a cylinder hot, and good power when it runs right. I used a ring additive and changed valve covers so the PCV could be more efficient and it helped tons in terms of consumption. If I hadn't mentioned above, I did just move over to long tubes about a month or two ago, never wrapped them, could that really affect oil temp to that extent?
260 is fine for synthetic if you're beating the snot out of it. My 84 would get to 260 with one spirited on ramp pull and would approach 275-280 on cool days under normal driving. If you're holding 260 that is of no concern. Figure the same oil in your sump is run through turbos at much higher temps with no break down. I wouldn't be worried. Figure most high performance engines in the race world are operating in the mid to upper 200s.
That being said, the fix was an oil cooler. See temps right around coolant now regardless of how hard I beat it.
Would you recommend something like a sandwich plate where the filter is to a cooler hooked in front of the condenser? Or is there something better I could install?
that said, i had similar but not as high issues even after i gutted the factory cat that was stopped up.
our 84 had the factory radiator. I installed a used, plastic endcap, aluminum rad that was on a parts car, that did it. The temps on the 84 are now very close to a tpi car. For a street car, u could even install an 85+ kc4 cooler. That said, the earls oil to air cooler suggested by 78, is both easier to install than the kc4, new, and will cool better.
be sure your exhaust isnt plugged up! that will lead to oil heating, and will eventually lead to power loss also.
Would you recommend something like a sandwich plate where the filter is to a cooler hooked in front of the condenser? Or is there something better I could install?
yeah i used an adapter and some AN line and plumbing and mounted it in front of the condenser. So far so good. In the cool months its difficult to get the oil warm.
Those temps are too hot for what you have. Stock, oil will get to the 225-235F range and coolant will lag 10-20F behind unless you're in traffic, but if you've upgraded the radiator and still get temps like that I would say something is up. How much timing are you running and have you checked out the main cat?
My main cat plugged up pretty quickly once I put headers on the car.
Those temps are too hot for what you have. Stock, oil will get to the 225-235F range and coolant will lag 10-20F behind unless you're in traffic, but if you've upgraded the radiator and still get temps like that I would say something is up. How much timing are you running and have you checked out the main cat?
My main cat plugged up pretty quickly once I put headers on the car.
Usually running about 185-195 coolant temp as far as I know, running stock 85 timing table with some tweaking from AUJM and a couple degrees pulled around 3200-3600 due to detonation on 91. Completely Catless. I do wonder if my oil temp gauge maybe off a bit, know the coolant sender reads a little different from the sensor the ECU uses. Like my gauge will say anything from 178-186 and it could be anywhere from 185-195. I could check my shroud area again, maybe some of my condenser fins are bent, blocking cooling ability? I got the oil temps to be more in the 200-210 range in traffic now, haven't seen anything higher than 225-230 while giving it the beans since retuning it. I don't think I'm in a situation where I'm running lean under wot, then again im tuning by feel, blindly, I did add some PE fuel in for the headers and full exhaust I installed, and it pulls great to 4800 rpm.