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Offered to help my buddy change the steering column in his 92 due to bad turn signal switch. He's short so, I told him to work under the dash. BAD move. He just started disconnecting everything , didn't mark or even take a pic of where things went. Got it back together and no start. Now there is a plug that looks important and we can't figure where it goes. I took the old ign switch with key in it and plugged it into the VATS plug , still nothing. Any idea where this plug goes ??
Looks to be cruise engage switch. Do you have the FSM for any year? Of course it would be best for '92. C235 is the connector I believe and 8A-201-10 Fig 29 would be a good image.
You said helped 'change' steering column? What have you done regarding the ignition cylinder from the older to the replacement. Do you have a steady ON 'Security' light? There's a good bit you've not mentioned.
I removed the ignition cylinder from the broken column and plugged it into the Vats plug with the key on until I get a proper key. I thought that might satisfy the VATS system. Security light is blinking.
Ah, it's possible the contacts inside the rack are dirty. This column came from a Corvette yard and it may have been setting exposed. Hmmmm. Thanks for the insight.
My expertise is with the C-1 and C-2 cars. I know little about C-4's.
In the picture above the connector in the foreground (cruise control stalk) plugs into the black connector with 4-wires (grn, gry, yel, blu) shown directly behind and below it.
If a door is open, and the key is OFF a flashing SECURITY light is normal.
With the key in RUN, the SECURITY light should be OFF. If SECURITY is ON with the key ON, the key resistance is not being 'read' correctly.
Yep, I snuck out and tried it. The plug went right in, but sideways !! didn't see that. Security light is on steady with key on, even with the old key in the old cylinder and plugged in. I will order a new key for it. Thanks again.
Hi, that comes from the turn signal stalk. It's exactly the same in almost every GM vehicle of that era (late 70s and through the early to late 80s), with the only difference really being the wire colors. That is coming directly from the turn signal stalk base in the steering column, and it should plug into a connector that's part of the main harness. You can see an example of it here: eBay Auction
Security light is on steady with key on, even with the old key in the old cylinder and plugged in.
Measure the resistance of the original key for the car and compare it to the chart below. You'll know the key code for the resistance. Also note that there is a "range" of resistance for each code. Unplug the key cyl connector and measure the resistance of the entire assembly: key, cylinder, contacts and wiring. The total resistance must fall within the range specifiec for the key code.
If you have a solid-on SECURITY light, keep in mind that when your futzing with the resistance, keys, plugging and unplugging, etc after you turn the key off you have to wait 5 minutes before you try it again after changing something. There's a timer between "tries".
1179 Ohms is a #5, near the upper limit for a #5, but it should work. Are you sure you haven't mixed up the keys between the original, "old" key and the key that came with the column from the salvage yard? The key resistance is burned into the CCM memory when the car is built. It can not be changed, nor will a different resistance ever be accepted by the CCM.
There is an onboard diagnostic that displays the digital value of the key resistance that the CCM is receiving that may be helpful.
Jumper the Diagnostic Port cavities A and G. (Top Right to Bottom Left)
Turn key to RUN. Watch the LCD / Speedometer in the cluster.
Press TRIP/ODO until "1.2" Displays in the trip monitor area of cluster.
Press ENG/MET until "06 xxx" displays in the odometer area of the cluster.
The xxx is the digital value being received by the CCM. Key Code #5 is 91-98. If the value displayed is slightly higher or lower than this range, the CCM will not accept it as being a #5. If you see 255, the circuit is open, ie infinite resistance.. Like a broken wire, not plugged in, bad connection to the key, etc.
I also noticed that this is a 1992. I'm not going to elaborate on what may be going on because it is a 92-93, but as long as the jumper is in A and G, let the codes run, write them down, and report back.
With the jumper in A and G, turn the key to RUN. Watch the speedo. (No button pushes required to read the codes.)
There is a little number (1, 4, 9) and a larger number that begins with a H[istory] or a C[urrent]. A C code will always be accompanied by an H Code.
Watch the codes go by. When "- - - " is displayed, that is the end of that module, and the little number increments to the next. After "9. - - - " It goes back to Module 1 and waits for further instructions. If you get lost, or want to see them again, turn the key off, wait 10 seconds and turn it back on. They run again.
Codes of interest regarding a no crank, no start are in Module 1. C/H 41, C/H 51.
If the SECURITY light is solid-on in RUN, you should have a C51. 51 will set if the digital value is out of range. Work on the key resistance stuff.
C/H41 in module 1 is a serial data error that is a known issue with the 92-93 engine ECM. (I said I wasn't going to elaborate. Report back if you have a 1.C41, and I will.)
All is good now. I ended up rebuilding the broken turn signal switch and put the original column back in the car. Who the f designed that switch should be slapped ! Designed to fail. The column we put in was an auto unit and it wasn't going to work either. I will put a a couple pics on how I repaired it. Thanks everybody !
changed steering column- strange plug
