1986 corvette dash problem
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
1986 corvette dash problem
So my digital dash was working pretty strong for the past couple years every now and then it would go completely dark but a quick tap on the side would make it come to life again and I would continue on no problem.
Just got my car back from a shop it was at for a few months while I was away and now it flickers like this. Weirdly, it flashes on and off in a similar pattern to how you would read flashes when trying to pull codes. Thought it was just a weird quirk and went for a quick 10 minute drive to get gas pulled into my garage and about a minute later I smelled burning. Going to shut the car off and I notice a small amount of smoke coming out of the turn signal switch on the column, about a minute after I filmed this video. This is a late 86 auto and it has always had a bunch of issues so I don't know if this is related or not.
My question is are these problems related (wires for the dash also running through the column)? Does it seem like a wiring problem or does my cluster just need to be rebuild at this point? Any pointers for what to check first?
I am electronic savy so rebuilding this dash myself is not a problem I already have the LED kit I was planning to install when the time came. I attached a video I took if for any reason it has a problem uploading please let me know I will try and again any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Just got my car back from a shop it was at for a few months while I was away and now it flickers like this. Weirdly, it flashes on and off in a similar pattern to how you would read flashes when trying to pull codes. Thought it was just a weird quirk and went for a quick 10 minute drive to get gas pulled into my garage and about a minute later I smelled burning. Going to shut the car off and I notice a small amount of smoke coming out of the turn signal switch on the column, about a minute after I filmed this video. This is a late 86 auto and it has always had a bunch of issues so I don't know if this is related or not.
My question is are these problems related (wires for the dash also running through the column)? Does it seem like a wiring problem or does my cluster just need to be rebuild at this point? Any pointers for what to check first?
I am electronic savy so rebuilding this dash myself is not a problem I already have the LED kit I was planning to install when the time came. I attached a video I took if for any reason it has a problem uploading please let me know I will try and again any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,851
Likes: 579
From: New Port Richey FL
Couldn't get your upload to open, but the flicker that goes away with a tap sounds like solder joint or power supply problem some kind connection problem.
I also don't feel that the smoke is related to the flicker. I would definitely park and pull a battery cable until you could lower the Kick Panel and give a look. Hopefully there's no cooked wires, I'm thinking you're Ignition switch mounted on the base on top of the column tons of Amps goes through it.
I also don't feel that the smoke is related to the flicker. I would definitely park and pull a battery cable until you could lower the Kick Panel and give a look. Hopefully there's no cooked wires, I'm thinking you're Ignition switch mounted on the base on top of the column tons of Amps goes through it.
Last edited by s carter; Oct 27, 2025 at 10:54 PM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 384
Likes: 144
From: Langton, Ontario, Canada
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I couldn't get the video to run either, but it sounds like this:
There's two cards inside your display that are connected together with a series of pins and sockets. The first pin is the ground, and it routinely overheats, as it is carrying the amperage of all those hot halogen lights inside the display. Once it's heated up, it loses its spring tension and does not conduct reliably anymore. The symptom is flickering lights, and when the main lights go out, the turn signals and high beam lights come on bright. This is because the current is now attempting to go through the turn signals and high beam indicators, and finds a ground through the filaments of the 1157 bulbs and headlights.
How I fixed mine was to bypass the overheated pin (it's obviously the black one) by soldering a bypass wire across the pin sets. I put a male and female insulated spade connector in the middle of the wire, so that I could completely disconnect the boards if I needed to. Also, while your in there, install those LED bulbs to replace those halogen bulbs. They produce a pile of heat, and heat is the enemy of electronics.
Good luck!
There's two cards inside your display that are connected together with a series of pins and sockets. The first pin is the ground, and it routinely overheats, as it is carrying the amperage of all those hot halogen lights inside the display. Once it's heated up, it loses its spring tension and does not conduct reliably anymore. The symptom is flickering lights, and when the main lights go out, the turn signals and high beam lights come on bright. This is because the current is now attempting to go through the turn signals and high beam indicators, and finds a ground through the filaments of the 1157 bulbs and headlights.
How I fixed mine was to bypass the overheated pin (it's obviously the black one) by soldering a bypass wire across the pin sets. I put a male and female insulated spade connector in the middle of the wire, so that I could completely disconnect the boards if I needed to. Also, while your in there, install those LED bulbs to replace those halogen bulbs. They produce a pile of heat, and heat is the enemy of electronics.
Good luck!
Last edited by LiveWire1; Oct 27, 2025 at 10:07 PM.
Navigator
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
1985 corvette dash problem
Check out Batee.com the specialize in rebuilding teh digital dash units. They also have Youtube videos on how to remove them.
https://batee.com/
https://batee.com/
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 487
From: NJ
I couldn't get the video to run either, but it sounds like this:
There's two cards inside your display that are connected together with a series of pins and sockets. The first pin is the ground, and it routinely overheats, as it is carrying the amperage of all those hot halogen lights inside the display. Once it's heated up, it loses its spring tension and does not conduct reliably anymore. The symptom is flickering lights, and when the main lights go out, the turn signals and high beam lights come on bright. This is because the current is now attempting to go through the turn signals and high beam indicators, and finds a ground through the filaments of the 1157 bulbs and headlights.
How I fixed mine was to bypass the overheated pin (it's obviously the black one) by soldering a bypass wire across the pin sets. I put a male and female insulated spade connector in the middle of the wire, so that I could completely disconnect the boards if I needed to. Also, while your in there, install those LED bulbs to replace those halogen bulbs. They produce a pile of heat, and heat is the enemy of electronics.
Good luck!
There's two cards inside your display that are connected together with a series of pins and sockets. The first pin is the ground, and it routinely overheats, as it is carrying the amperage of all those hot halogen lights inside the display. Once it's heated up, it loses its spring tension and does not conduct reliably anymore. The symptom is flickering lights, and when the main lights go out, the turn signals and high beam lights come on bright. This is because the current is now attempting to go through the turn signals and high beam indicators, and finds a ground through the filaments of the 1157 bulbs and headlights.
How I fixed mine was to bypass the overheated pin (it's obviously the black one) by soldering a bypass wire across the pin sets. I put a male and female insulated spade connector in the middle of the wire, so that I could completely disconnect the boards if I needed to. Also, while your in there, install those LED bulbs to replace those halogen bulbs. They produce a pile of heat, and heat is the enemy of electronics.
Good luck!
I agree, this is the solution to your problem.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 5
From: Tallahassee Fl
unless you intend to change to LEDs which sounds like a great modification*, be SURE you use the correct bulbs and not just a bulb from a local parts store that looks the same..it may pull more amps and over time it will burn the lands on the display board. Clean the bulb sockets and contacts with a pencil eraser or whatever works and you might be good for another few years. *Pay attention to what LiveWire1 posted, sounds very good to me. Good luck.
