C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake pad question

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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 05:12 PM
  #21  
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I had a 78 year old master machinist turn my stock rotors. Rotors are kind of like cast iron blocks. Everyone wants a "seasoned" block with a lot of heat cool cycles in them. A lot of internal stresses go away. He snuck up on them making only 2 thousands cuts. Since I have time I did a little cleaning and painting. These days half the rotors he machines are BRAND NEW. He said the quality of some of the Chinese rotors is horrible. I still have about 22 thousands to cut on each rotor before minimum thickness. The random scratches on the surface is from a sander he hits them with to create a surface that will bed the pad better. Dan


Last edited by Whaleman; Nov 8, 2025 at 05:17 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 05:23 PM
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Had a little time to mess with the brackets. Used POR caliper paint. That is except with the slide areas that I hit with silver engine paint. Dan



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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Natty C
Hm. I've ever heard of Porterfield. Gonna have to give em a look.

Looks like the R4-S ones are the only ones for street use?

Also states not for CCM discs. I guess that means carbon ceramic?

What rotors would you use with those?

Thanks for posting up the link, IHBD.

Please let us know how well they stop, Dan.
I will Natty but it will be Spring. We have snow coming in a couple of hours. My season is over. Dan
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by IHBD
One other thing:

I seldom make "recommendations" in lieu of "suggestions", but I have had great results by using Permatex 80077 "Disc Brake Quiet" on my last (3) pad change outs, ( Porsche 911 and Maccan; the A-M Vantage). The reason I use "great" is that the owners (amusingly all women) haven't complained of any noise. My neighbor across the street had been reluctant to drive her 1986 Carrera for years because of an unusual noise no one had identified. I finally deduced it was from the front brakes, but had never heard this particular noise before from any disc brake. Long story still long, the Permatex fixed it, she's driving her 911 again regularly.

The 80077 goes on the backing plate. Not the friction. I turn the pads friction face down on a sheet of paper, apply two coats about 10 minutes apart and let it sit for at least a couple of hours before installation. I will definitely continue to use this stuff on my pad changes. It may not be necessary, but no one likes squeaky or noisy brakes. Cheers.

So, with this you would not use any brake grease on the back. Correct? Dan
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Whaleman
I will Natty but it will be Spring. We have snow coming in a couple of hours. My season is over. Dan
Yeah, I was just talking to my mom on the phone. She lives in Iowa, too, there in Mount Vernon. Said the temps dropped quick and supposed to be in the teens tonight and incoming snow. Won't be long until we start getting winter here, too.

I finished buttoning up my door panels today after repairing some wiring and I doubt I'll see much more time out with it myself. Maybe a cruise or two before the winter sleep.
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Old Nov 8, 2025 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Whaleman
So, with this you would not use any brake grease on the back. Correct? Dan
No. I do/would not.

Over the years I've tried different disc brake 'anti-noise' products including "grease" with varying results. Usually not so good in that the brakes still squeaked. With modern friction compounds it seems that there is less propensity for disc brakes to make noise. I bought the 80077 specifically for Debby's 911 situation I cited above. It worked. I'll likely continue to use it and will probably purchase another can when this one is empty.

I use another Permatex product, 24110 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube for "grease". I use it on almost all caliper mounting surfaces that move. Mounting pins, and metal to metal sliding surfaces. I sometimes use it on pad to caliper mounting surfaces if the contact is directly between the steel pad backing plate and the iron or steel mount that the pad mounts into. It gets a very light smear. If there are stainless steel sleeves or shims between the pad and mounting, I likely won't use grease. In all positions, I am very frugal with the application of grease in the vicinity of the pads. I don't want grease migrating onto friction surfaces from the heat that is generated in service. << You know all this. Cheers.


Last edited by IHBD; Nov 8, 2025 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2025 | 06:36 AM
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The different thickness of the pad material on the rear pads has a simple explanation. The spec for thickness for this pad is .535". The outside pad has a bonded sheet metal layer on the back that I showed in earlier photos. The pad material on the outside pad is thinner to make up for this sheet metal backing. The finish total thickness of both the inside and outside pad is the same. Dan


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Old Nov 12, 2025 | 03:04 PM
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Just to finish this off. To return my defective Carbotech pads cost me a total of $97.22 with the shipping and 20% restock fee. Can you imagine charging someone 20% to return a defective product. Dan
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