Power door locks not working
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 499
Likes: 115
From: Allentown Pa
Power door locks not working
Hello all,
I purchased my 1992 Corvette coupe 2 years ago. The power door locks do not work. I dug into the issue today and did a search here. I have power at the main accy fuse located at the passenger side fuse panel. Tested it with my cigarette lighter which worked. Located the power door lock fuse under the passenger side hush panel. I found that it was blown. Replaced it and hooked up the door lock switches on each side (the door panels are off). The door locks still do not work. My questions are: Do all of the door electronic connectors need to be connected for the door locks to work? If not, I will test for power at the plunger connectors. I can't get my fat hands inside the panel to disconnect the connecter. Is there a way to do this or do I have to drill out the rivets to get the plunger motor out?
Thanks for any suggestions as always,
Regards,
Kevin
I purchased my 1992 Corvette coupe 2 years ago. The power door locks do not work. I dug into the issue today and did a search here. I have power at the main accy fuse located at the passenger side fuse panel. Tested it with my cigarette lighter which worked. Located the power door lock fuse under the passenger side hush panel. I found that it was blown. Replaced it and hooked up the door lock switches on each side (the door panels are off). The door locks still do not work. My questions are: Do all of the door electronic connectors need to be connected for the door locks to work? If not, I will test for power at the plunger connectors. I can't get my fat hands inside the panel to disconnect the connecter. Is there a way to do this or do I have to drill out the rivets to get the plunger motor out?
Thanks for any suggestions as always,
Regards,
Kevin
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,197
Likes: 3,024
From: So Cal
2023 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
You don't have to drill out the lock motors to test.
At the driver switch the orange/black is hot at all times. Comes from the Fuse in the aux fuse box.
The gray wire is (+) to UNlock. (-) to LOCK.
The tan wire is (-) to UNlock and (+) to LOCK.
You need to apply power to one of the wires and ground to the other. The gray and tan wires go directly to the lock motors.
Another validation check: When the tan wire gets a (+) pulse, the SECURITY light should go Solid-On. The alarm is armed. When the gray wire gets a (+) pulse, the SECURITY light should go back to flashing (with a door open), the alarm is disarmed.
At the driver switch the orange/black is hot at all times. Comes from the Fuse in the aux fuse box.
The gray wire is (+) to UNlock. (-) to LOCK.
The tan wire is (-) to UNlock and (+) to LOCK.
You need to apply power to one of the wires and ground to the other. The gray and tan wires go directly to the lock motors.
Another validation check: When the tan wire gets a (+) pulse, the SECURITY light should go Solid-On. The alarm is armed. When the gray wire gets a (+) pulse, the SECURITY light should go back to flashing (with a door open), the alarm is disarmed.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 499
Likes: 115
From: Allentown Pa
Thank you again IHBD. I will try this diagnostic soon as I can. Rain all day tomorrow. Today was put in a new water pump in my 2011 Escalade.
Thank you again for the diagnostic steps,
Regards,
Kevin
Thank you again for the diagnostic steps,
Regards,
Kevin
