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Yes. But it's not just swapping valves and adding a charge.
Off the top of my head:
System needs to be properly evacuated and flushed
Parallel flow condenser is preferable
O-rings and seals should be replaced
Proper oil added
new drier
proper orifice tube
Nitrogen charge and check for leaks
vacuum and check to hold
Proper charge for system
And a whole bunch of other stuff I'm sure I'm forgetting but thats the basic outline. The vacuum and purge testing a local shop can do as well as the initial evacuation. I replaced my compressor at the same time.
I did my own years ago. You do need a vacuum pump and gauges. My compressor seized so I figured it was a good time to do it. Replaced the compressor dessicant can and orifice tube. Otherwise just flushed the evap and condenser out using brake cleaner-yea it's not the official way but it works just fine. Blew it out with compressed air. Replaced o rings. Added the 134 oil correct amounts to each component. Vacuum system for an hour to evacuate moisture and check for leaks. Fill with freon. Only other thing is the pressure switch, easy on our cars-just turn the screw in the middle to adjust so it cycles at a lower pressure for 134.
Like in the other R12 thread today... easy solution (better solution) just add R134a REPLACEMENT (also called R12 replacement in some countries as it's mixable/compatible/superior in performance) and it's good... not R134a. That's an expensive PITA way to go to do it properly.
Last edited by AZSP33D; Jun 11, 2026 at 02:08 AM.
Reason: clarify other thread from today as it references R12 but solution is same
Like in the other R12 thread today... easy solution (better solution) just add R134a REPLACEMENT (also called R12 replacement in some countries as it's mixable/compatible/superior in performance) and it's good... not R134a. That's an expensive PITA way to go to do it properly.
Why not just replace with real R12, and avoid all the hassle. R12 is still available(not manufactured) and will be for years to come.It is up to 90 bucks a pound now for quality r12, but i saw the new stuff Y1234(guessing) at walmart yesterday for 50 a pound, so not to excessively priced.
R12 issue is 3 places wont due to not having r12 gear to do it anymore. Whatever the hell that means.
I am in a rock n a hard place.
I would rather get it overwith with the conversion then deal with placea not being able to evac and reinstall R12 after they try to find it.
Why not just replace with real R12, and avoid all the hassle. R12 is still available(not manufactured) and will be for years to come.It is up to 90 bucks a pound now for quality r12, but i saw the new stuff Y1234(guessing) at walmart yesterday for 50 a pound, so not to excessively priced.
that’s not the new stuff anyone is recommending, seems you missed the point. What’s simpler than adding the inexpensive replacement?
I did it myself years ago, too, because of a compressor issue. It was not a nightmare. I decided to have a shop charge it up, just to be on the safe side (probably overly cautious).
that’s not the new stuff anyone is recommending, seems you missed the point. What’s simpler than adding the inexpensive replacement?
because its the equivalent of having a leak on your radiator and instead of replacing radiator you just add a can of Autozone stop leak because its easier or simpler, thousands of folks make that choice, just not the choice i'd make.
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