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Yes. But it's not just swapping valves and adding a charge.
Off the top of my head:
System needs to be properly evacuated and flushed
Parallel flow condenser is preferable
O-rings and seals should be replaced
Proper oil added
new drier
proper orifice tube
Nitrogen charge and check for leaks
vacuum and check to hold
Proper charge for system
And a whole bunch of other stuff I'm sure I'm forgetting but thats the basic outline. The vacuum and purge testing a local shop can do as well as the initial evacuation. I replaced my compressor at the same time.
I did my own years ago. You do need a vacuum pump and gauges. My compressor seized so I figured it was a good time to do it. Replaced the compressor dessicant can and orifice tube. Otherwise just flushed the evap and condenser out using brake cleaner-yea it's not the official way but it works just fine. Blew it out with compressed air. Replaced o rings. Added the 134 oil correct amounts to each component. Vacuum system for an hour to evacuate moisture and check for leaks. Fill with freon. Only other thing is the pressure switch, easy on our cars-just turn the screw in the middle to adjust so it cycles at a lower pressure for 134.
Like in the other R12 thread today... easy solution (better solution) just add R134a REPLACEMENT (also called R12 replacement in some countries as it's mixable/compatible/superior in performance) and it's good... not R134a. That's an expensive PITA way to go to do it properly.
Last edited by AZSP33D; Yesterday at 02:08 AM.
Reason: clarify other thread from today as it references R12 but solution is same
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