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Now, if I pull the distributor and change the pickup coil, how hard is it to change the shaft bushings while I'm in there? Or would I be better off just buying a new or rebuilt distributor?
Also, I think that the pickup coil would be wired directly to the MSD with the MSD-8861 wiring harness which may alleviate this problem? Or would this shorting situation cause my MSD unit to have problems?
o.k....it's ignition lesson time :D .. the pickup coil is a round unit that has a star on the inside. the dist shaft also has a littler star that spins inside the bigger one. there should be 8,one for each cylinder. the only job of the pickup coil is to send a reference signal to the module telling it to fire the coil...once again msd has nothing to do with this..get out of that thought. this signal which is sent to the module is then used to send a signal to fire the coil...the msd coil is the last link...the pickup coil and module do not recieve high voltage so to say the msd is doin it is probally not the case..the pick up coil references where the enginge is in respect to the rotation of the cam and sends a wave signal to the module telling it to fire the coil at the right time..the only way that you are not using the pickup coil to send this signal is if you have installed some sort of crank trigger that would act in place of the pickup coil... start with the basics and go from there...if you doubt me un hook the msd and go stock....but you yourself said this problem existed before you even installed the msd...hope this helps.... :cheers: by the way i was an ASE master tech in a large independant garage for 8 years.. :steering:
Another thought on your problem. There should be a metal shield over the module. I'm not sure if G.M. intended this to be a heat shield or EMI shield, possibly both. This could cause problems if lost at some point in the cars life and never replaced. I hope you find the solution soon. :cool:
Hey, I appreciate all the help I can get. I'm pretty strong on the mechanical side but fairly weak on the electron side of cars.
MSD's tech said that using the bypass wiring would make it so the IM would only be used to communicate with the computer as to cylinder firing distribution and take a large load off the amperage going through the module.
It sounds to me like it is distributor rebuild or replace time to me. AFAK this is the original distributor in the car. I've replaced just about everything else, anyway.
Cold and ugly. I could really use some take the top off spring weather.
I feel your pain on this problem, I've been hunting down a problem in mine causing it to ping like no other for three years now and still can't pin it down.
Have you tried putting your problem on this forum? These guys can be real helpful. It sounds like your knock sensor or circuit isn't working properly, or communicating with your computer.
OK, gang. I thought about putting a new pick-up coil in my old distributor but decided to get a blueprinted Accel distributor from Accel instead. Everything seemed to work out great but at an autocross, today, all of a sudden the engine would run but it would die if I put it in gear or if I let it idle. I pulled the codes and it was showing a 42 (Electronic Spark Control). After I let the car sit for about 30 minutes it started right up, idled fine and I was able to drive it onto the trailer. Same thing when I got it home, fired up fine and drove it off the trailer and into the garage. I HATE intermittent problems.