When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've had a problem in my 1986 with ignition modules constantly burning out. I've tried cheapos, NAPAs, GMs and Accels and all have burned out. I do have a MSD 6A but that is the only modification. HELP!!!!
Re: HEI Ignition modules only last 1000 miles (Stealthvette)
Just a couple of thoughts. Are you putting enough heatsink grease on the bottom of the module and being careful not to over torque the hold down screws. Heat and stress are two of the major factors that can shorten a chip's life. Hope this helps.
Re: HEI Ignition modules only last 1000 miles (Stealthvette)
It isn't the ignition modules you are burning out, its the spark coil. The factory coil is designed for 12v pulses from the ignition module and your MSD ignition puts 540 volt pulses on the coil and burns it out in 1000 miles. Buy the coil from MSD intended to be used with their ignition package.
While you are at it, buy the MSD pin for the center of the distributor cap as the factory carbon button burns out from the higher energy output from your MSD package.
Re: HEI Ignition modules only last 1000 miles (ethan1321)
Yeah, I've always been diligent about making sure there was plenty of the grease on the bottom of the module. Don't know about tightening it down too much. How much is too much?
The MSD ignitions don't even use the control module once they are installed. The only thing the module is used for at that point is a crank signal so that the ignition knows when to fire.
As said get the MSD coil and low resistance HEI brush.
Re: HEI Ignition modules only last 1000 miles (jfb)
My spark coil? No, I've got the MSD "Blaster" coil setup, not the stock coil. Is that what you mean? Is that coil messing up my modules? Because when I replace the modules everything works again, for awhile. I thought the "button" on the distributor cap came with the cap. Do I need to get the MSD cap?
I wish I could eliminate the control module from my system, it is such a PIA having these things going out on me all the time. It seems like MSD would have told me all the other things I need to change when I installed their system. I autocross this car and these durn things fail at an incredible rate. Of course I always carry a spare but that is a pain, too.
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
Its a possibility, but not a gaurantee. The normal bushings are high resistance and lots of heat builds up because they cannot pass all of the current through.
Let's see if I understand the situation. It seems you are saying that the MSD puts so much more voltage/amperage through the distributor cap that the button can't handle the extra load creating extra heat inside the distributor which, in turn, cooks the internals of the ignition module. Is that correct?
The MSD button will not harm your ign module, but an incorrect spark coil might. The GM module was designed to work with the GM spark coil. An MSD button is required with the MSD capacitor discharge ignition system because the current pulses in the spark are so much higher that they heat up the GM button and it melts the distributor cap.
Yeah, I talked to MSD, today. They said that a stock button wouldn't have any affect on the ignition module because all the heat is above the rotor and separated from the ignition module. I think I must have put an MSD button in when I installed the system as they say trying to run a stock button will usually end up with a melted rotor and/or cap. I've ordered another one, just in case I've been lucky.
A friend of mine suggested that I might have a ground problem. I suggested this idea to MSD and they said that a bad ground could, indeed, cause ignition modules to fail. They suggested wiring a ground from the distributor to a good ground source.
I have moved my battery to the compartment behind the passenger seat and the ground lead goes to the big bolt that attaches the C-beam to the rear-end. I would think that would give a solid ground. I know that my starter has no problems at all.
I've got a new "Low Resistance Bushing" for the cap and I ordered MSD-8861 which is a small wiring harness that converts the ignition module to a trigger, only, for the computer. This should lower the temperature build up in the IM since no firing voltage will be going through it. I'll keep everyone posted.
it's the pickup coil....trust me....if you keep blowing out perfectly good modules for no reason...9 times out of 10 you have a pickup coil that is really the cause ..this is very common to hei spark systems...the fact you have an msd is really irrelevant.. when you pull your dist check the dist shaft bushings they are known to wear on high millage dist and cauce the pick up to actually short out... there should be very little play in the dist shaft...also buy a good pickup coil like from gm. check bushings if good replace pickup coil and module...my bet is problem will be gone and you'll be happy :cheers:
What do you mean by "pickup coil?" I have installed the MSD Blaster coil when I put in the MSD ignition. Now, refer to my previous post about putting in MSD's (#8861) cable that wires the MSD directly into the distributor trigger and bypasses the spark current around the module. Shouldn't this solve the problem?
It sounds like you are saying that I may have a problem with distributor bushings being worn out, too. Is this something I can rebuild or do I need to have a professional handle that job?
That would be the round piece surrounding the shaft next to the module. Also has two wires running to the module. The coil actually sits in a housing that has the ring with the points facing inward that he star wheel on the shaft lines up with. Gesh that's a tough one to describe. Scorp's right, gotta pull the gear off and the shaft out to change.