Friday night I took my wife to Hard Rock Cafe in the Vette (87 Coupe). While going about 40 mph the engine quit, so I shifted into neutral and started the engine with no problem. After dinner, the car started fine and we drove home (about 13 miles). On Saturday at noon, we went for lunch at my in-laws, about 2 miles away, the car started fine. After lunch I tried starting the car and the engine turned over but did not start. After about 15 tries, I called the tow truck and took it home. About six hours later, the car started on the first try and I shut it down and restarted it about six times with no problem. Then, on Sunday I tried starting it and it did not start. After trying about 15 times I gave up. This morning the car would not start. I tried this afternoon and it started fine but quit after idling for about three minutes. Then it would not start again. The gas tank is full. The only thing done to it lately was disconnecting the ABS system but I don't think that has anything to do with it.
In this condition, I cannot drive it to the shop because it can quit any minute then I would have to tow it. Where can I start to check the problem? Ignition coil? Electrical problem? I checked this morning, before trying to start it and it had pressure in the fuel rails. Any help will be appreciated. It is an 87 Coupe, with auto trans. It only has KN filter, cut lid, Hypertech thermomaster chip and throttle body airfoil since about a year and a half.


:mad :mad :confused: :confused:

 

I guess you checked the distributor connections?
It could be the coil or the ignition module.

 

Mine is doing the same thing. It runs for a short time then dies. It starts and does the same thing. Anybody?? :confused:

 

When the car won't start is the time to investigate the reason. All engines require air, fuel, spark (and at the right time) in order to start and run. First, use your timing light to see if you have spark and correct spark timing. Next, measure the fuel pressure on the fuel rail and connect a low power 12v lamp on one of the injector plugs, when cranking the lamp should pulse showing that the injectors are being pulsed by the ECM. Disconnect the flexible hose from the front of the MAF for assurance the engine is getting air.
My money is on no spark.

 

:eek: Today I tried to start the car (87 Coupe) and it did not start. Then I noticed that when I turned the key to the 'ON' position, the "check engine" light did not go on. It is supposed to go on for a few seconds when you start the car. Then I noticed that in the digital cluster it res in the 'miles per gallon' screen: 99. In the screen that tells you how far you can travel with the available fuel at the 'mpg' rate its reading over 500 miles. This is definitely out of whack. Can it be that the ECM is bad? I installed a rebuilt one about 2 years ago and then a Hypertech thermomaster chip about 18 months ago. Can that be it? :rant:

 

It could be your ECM and the tests I recommended will show that.

 

I had a bad connection on a wire splice from the MSD to the coil. :steering:

 

:D :D Today I put in a rebuilt ECM. Car did not start and had no pulse in the injector I put the test light in. Then jumped terminal G in the ALCL and only a slight click was heard. Then put a jumper cable from terminal D to terminal E in the fuel pump relay and the car started fine, Removed the test light and jumper cable and the engine kept running. Shut it down to reconnect the injector plug and restarted fine. Kept running at idle for 3-4 minutes then the engine quit. Restarted several times and it started fine. I kept the engine running at idle with occasional bursts to 4,000 rpms and the engine is still running since 40 minutes ago. No hesitation at all. Steady as a rock. Could it be a bad fuel pump relay? I noticed that when it started, the fuel level was down one fourth. Then when I restarted the second time, it went back to Full. Relay or sending unit?
Thanks all of you for you help.
:lol: :lol:

 

I believe the fuel pump relay is only on for 2 seconds when you crank the engine to start it. When the engine starts and runs, the fuel pump gets 12v through a switch activated by engine oil pressure. I think your oil pressure switch is defective and intermittent and I would replace it.

 

jfb,
could this be my problem( oil presure switch and or fuel pump relay) and where are they located?

thanks for all your help...It is making me feel better....maybe I will get lucky and this may be all it is.... Where can I get these 2 parts from...I think when my car had 1st did this..I tried to get the oil presure switch and they ask which one for a light or a guage...I must have went blank...cuz I must have picked the wrong one cuz to this day I still have no idea when it goes nor could I find anything like it on the car... If you could inlighten me om where these 2 parts go...Or if you happen to have pic's of what they look like that would help me too....

Thanks

 

Oil Pressure Switch....................Top LH rear of engine

Fuel Pump Relay.......................RH front of dash, right of brake master cylinder

:seeya

 

:confused: Can the oil pressure switch be defective even though I'm getting good oil pressure readings? :confused: