I am just looking for a few "been there before" tips on installing engine in my 84 in hopes of it being a little easier than I think it might be. You should know that I am testing the system as I posted similiar on NCRS board but little help--this frustrates me as I realize that the organization still has not come to grips with the newer class of vettes. Beyond me, I own a 58, a 72, an 84 and a 90 and I love every vette--my frustration coming out. Any way, the post has been on that board all day withou a single response. Bet this board responds within 30-minutes. Here goes:

everything up front removed so I have all the navigation room to get to things. Specifically, what should be left "on" or "off" the motor as I hoist her for installation. Should the motor mounts be on the block or should I have them on block? Appears that I should raise automatic trans as high as feasible so that block alignment pins mate up and then lower and fit to motor mount saddles. You folks get my drift here. Appreciate your help. I honestly trust this site for quick and helpful advice. Bill Texas and God Bless our Troops! :smash

 

Hey Bill,

Pulled mine this past december so I can appreciate your apprehension! As for pitfalls... I can't think of too many things, the biggest pain is just getting all the AC, accessories and smog junk out of the way to get to the meaty stuff! Take lots of pictures... I have a digital camera that has served me well, so let me know (at any time in the future) if you need pics of something.

Also, I unbolted the motor mounts from the block itself, just so the motor would be free to slide forward once the tranny was off (I also removed the crank pully and damper for clearance), but I suspect one could do it the other way around with a little skill and patience. I put a second floor jack - man it's nice to have two - under the transmission and took up the slack under the pan; this will be a huge help for when you're trying to line those dowel pins up on the reinstallation of the engine block.

I also took off as little as possible: you can unbolt the powersteering pump & reservoir from the heads, and just lay them down in the front of the engine bay without disconnecting the hoses. Also, taking off the hood was a nice convenience, if you have an extra pair of hands to help you lift it off.

All that comes to mind, but if you have any more Q's feel free to IM me on the forum (I'm a regular) or email me at the address provided in my profile.

:cheers:
Jesse

Ahhh, man! I was ONE lousy minute over the 30 minute prediction... Well, does typing count against me?


[Modified by Ramanstud, 12:43 AM 3/23/2003]

 

Well I can jump in and give you my experience last fall.

I pulled the engine out my 84 from the side, you can do it from the front with the hood off, I like leaving the hood in place.

I removed as much up front as I could: alt, p/s, AIR pump, harmonic dampner ( I don't think it will clear with it in place).

I removed the radiator and wired the a/c compressor and lines to the side so I didn't have to recharge the system when I replaced the engine.

The heads and manifols (intake and exhaust) were off for inspection of terminal noises.

I left the 4+3 MT in, you can get at the upper bell housing bolts a lot easier if you pull the wiper motor.

I've read on the Forum that others have pull engine & trans together. I'd try that the next time because it took a great deal of time aligning the engine and trans input shaft when it went back in.

I removed the motor mounts from the block. I read that others didn't bother.

I hope this helps.

Happy wrenching!

:chevy

 

Bill, check with Larry Dickey (ld85). He just pulled his today and he's a terrific guy to talk to! :cheers:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=520109

 

I am reading and taking notes from all these engine R&R threads. I am close to a similar project. Observations so far, include the value of removing the wiper motor cover, at least. Unbolting the mounts from the block, so the engine won't have to be lifted to clear the the mount brackets before the engine is clear of the trans. It seems to me that an auto should require a lot less forward motion of the engine to clear the trans, than with a manual. It looks like a lot of us are doing or about to do an engine swap. It must be that time of the year. Good luck, all, and...

RACE ON!!!

 

Man----You guys are great! I cannot wait to get this 84 back together as she will actually be restored to me (front end only right now). Realized that I have the old motor out and hood, radiator, bumper, EVERYTHING removed. I really am most interested in how best to get new block back in. My effort is actually a from scratch effort so I may need some pictures to help with brackets and whatever. With all your help I can get there. I hope to have pictures too and EXPERIENCE for those who are coming after. I love the 84 but I really love my 58 too. The 84 is more fun to work on!! :cheers:

 

Bill,

There's one tool in my garage that has been more useful than all others; ... the factory shop manual.

It has very detailed component and wire routing illustrations that are useful for a repair /restoration; not to mention the Engine Control Module diagnostic tables.

2 years ago I bought a GM Parts Catalogue for the 84-84 Corvette. I paid about $20.00 on eBay.

This gives orginal part numbers that are helpful tracking down parts at dealers, etc. The illustrations are even more detailed than can be put in the shop manual.

Try eBay or the forum for a used ones.

My experience has been the Mitchells, Motor Service, ... manuals are Readers Digest versions of the factory service information. They condense and edit the orginal material and leave out important details.

Here's a link to Helm, the official GM Service Information publisher:
http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/ca...ng=84+corvette

:steering:

 

Finding the proper height in order to line up the dowel pins, motor mounts, etc. is always tricky if doing the job by yourself. One trick I have used is to pick up the engine from the engine stand with a slight rear low attitude. On the rear support chain, pass a one foot piece of allthread through the chain about five links down from the support hook with a nut and washer on each end. By "squeezing " the chain, the rear of the engine will raise up. With the transmission jacked as high as possible, the exact allignment is achieved in no time.

 

That's a great tip on the allthread arbee, thanks!!! :cheers:

 

My pleasure to help.

 

I know that I am a little late in joining this thread but, the biggest thing I found in doing this was to have a "tilting bracket" on the motor. Most of the parts places have them along with their motor lifts. A couple of turns of a crank and the motor can be tilted fore and aft easily. I wimped out and put the motor in with none of the brackets and only the front cover in place, left off everything but the heavy stuff. Now that I've done it once, I could likely put most of it and the damper on first.

 

Super advice! I have the parts microfiche and I use my 90 for some comparsions but the 84 is pretty, pretty unique. I took pictures before tearing down but previous owner had had things done and I really don't believe things were put back "exactly" correct.

Harness(s)--complete checks and lots of connectors replaced and wires repaired. Wiring is a real bummer to me. What a mess you can get into.

TBI--still have not cleaned up these units but understand you can get rebuild kits through GMPARTSDIRECT for about $21.00?

Longblock--have the original which spun couple of bearings and both heads had valve guide cracks. My machine shop favorite person set me up with a shortblock of his which was 93 version 350 with 1-piece rear seal. He had everything that I needed such as pan, etc. I found 2-85 vette heads which are a little meatier and they bebuilt these to. Standard cam. Block is ready and waiting on stand. Very nice looking. Remember, this is just a driver.

Brackets--I think I have just about every bracket (found the valve cover spark plug and loom brackets) just the other day. That was luck to me. I even found the distributor top shield with ground wire. Most cars I have seen have had mechanics lose or whatever. I just am not sure on orientation, exact hole location and such things. I really hate to leave something off which would be real difficult to get on later like behind the block!

reinstallation--I am hoping that since I essentially only have the front rails ng there is very little to get in my way. I have cleaned and painted every single inch and item in the front compartment area. Looks really, really, really good! I should soon have about 8-manhours in cleaning the hood underside which was years filthy. What a difference there isn't lick of dirt or grease anywhere!!

Biggest Lesson(s) Learned So Far--make sure you have sufficient room to work under the car. I am a safety nut when it comes to getting under heavy items. I am not very big so stomach didn't need lots of room but head and arms did. And, I was amazed at how many ugly-looking filthy parts cleaned up, look brand new and function perfectly.

Thanks for everything so far to ya'll Bill :flag