i have a 85 c4 that is undergoing a richmond 6 speed swap......... the shop cant get the clutch to bleed properly....it has a new slave,new mastercylinder,and a new line.........they checked the throwout bearing and it is the same height as the old one.........any tricks or special procedures for bleeding the clutch on this car............he said the clutch releases right at the floorboard......i recall it being close to the floor before i took it in for the conversion.....i only drove it for about 30 miles since i bought it with a bad factory O/d unit...........HELP me :confused: :confused: :confused:

 

Sigh... I wish I knew... I just did my car and the clutch grabs at the bottom only, and pumping it up makes me able to go into second... ReBlead it and same problem... Going to see about rebuilding the clutch master.
Hope someone can post something encouraging for the two of us :P

Matt

 

are you removing the slave from the bell housing and having the bleeder screw pointing up at an angle that permits all air to escape??? pumping it says you have air in it???

 

Bleeder screw on my 4+3 faces up. We have pumped quite a bit of fluid through it and no air comes out...
Matt

 

that is correct, but you still have to remove it from the bellhousing and tilt the slave at a 45 deg angle, then go through the bleed process. Tilting it puts the bleeder at an even higher level the allows for even more air to be displaced...

 

:thumbs:
I will try that tommorow...
Matt

 

my shop has removed slave from bell and bled over and over...replaced master cylinder twice and slave twice.........my trans shop hates my car now....................he is at a loss of words when i call......... :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

 

All I can say is it's a major PIA to get the system fully bleed. JimIroc on the forum just did his last week, maybe he will chime in with some tips. I "think" there may be something in the tips section too, or try a search, lots of topics on this corvette maintenance issue.

 

I haven't driven my car beyond my driveway yet, so I hate to say that my procedure worked perfectly, but going into reverse & 1st feels good, and the clutch lets out smoothly, and relatively high up, so I'm assuming that it works well until a testdrive proves me otherwise.

So anyway... I had all kinds of problems until I bench-bled the master cylinder with a vacuum bleeder. After bleeding for an hour and getting no pedal at all, I finally pulled the master back off and did it on the bench. I used the typical bench bleeding procedure for an hour with no luck. The "typical" procedure is to screw the nipple into the spot where the brake line goes, and run a tube from there back into the reservoir. Once it's rigged up, you slowly depress the rod and air comes out the tube, and sucks fluid back up. All it ever did for me was suck air around the nipple and got me nowhere.

So.. in a fit of frustration, I rigged up my bleeder pump to push the fluid instead of pull it. I rigged up an adapter to go from the big line that came with the pump to the small line that fits onto the nipple screwed into the bottom of the master. Once that was set, I pumped fluid up through the bottom until the reservoir cup filled up. I capped it and reinstalled. Right away my pedal felt perfect. I removed the slave from the bellhousing, and bled it 20 times but no air came out. I re-installed it and drove it in and out of the garage. So far so good. I'm hoping to take the car to work tomorrow, so I'll see how it feels.

 

When I bled my clutch I ended up having to take the slave off and fill it by hand. I put the fluid in a bowl, stuck the slave in it and pumped it by hand until it was full. Then I put it back on the car and it worked fine. It took me 2 days to figure this out but it worked.