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I have a stock 88, when it's dead cold in the morning it fires right up, after I've warmed it up and driven ,you have to crank it for about 5 sec. before it will come alive, other than that it runs and idles great. I'm thinking some old gas from storage or just a tune -up. It puzzles me why it fires so great cold.
Next time you start it with the car hot crack the throttle 1/3rd. If it starts faster then you probably have leaking injectors and will need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to verify.
What's the average cost of replacing the injectors, the engine runs great except for this, or can you have the leaking one identified and replaced? I have a few little items I planned on fixing up on this car.
Hi centurion, I have exactly the same problem that you.It's an '88 stock like you and start perfectly when cold.But start 4-5 sec when hot.I'am not resolve the problem yet because I'haven't the time to work on the car and the car is in storage yet and not at my home.I project to unstore my vette the next week(may first),and my priority is to eliminate this problem :mad .
at this time, the only thing I do is buying a fuel pressure gage :hurray:
Exact same problem as with my stock86 L98 which is probably injector leaks. Let me know best option to replace with new or rebuild GM units or new 24# Fords
The holding the 1/3 throttle on start-up fires it right up, looks like a lot of 88's have this problem, mine has 51K miles on it. Anyone out there have a good suggestion/recommendation on repair, cost etc? Will this leak fuel into the crankcase and be detrimental to the engine? Mine does not smell like gas, or leak anything on the garage floor.
Sorry for the late reply, I've been way to busy lately.
The next thing you want to do is buy a pressure gauge and install it on your fuel rail. Pinch off your return line and after you build pressure pinch off your pressure line. Watch the gauge to see if it drops. If it does then buy a good stethascope (sp?) and do the test all over again and see if you can hear which injector is leaking fuel. I have found them this way, but not always.
I NEVER clean or recondition injectors. To long of a story to tell here. Just buy new ones. I use the ford injectors with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. YOU HAVE TO DROP THE FUEL PRESSURE below the G.M. specs to get away with this and not have your computer working it's butt off to correct a rich fuel mixture.
Ask around on the board for other ideas and go with what you think is best for your pocket book and your mechanical abilities.
Another thing you can try is to take the spark splugs out and inspect for wetness about one hour after the engine turn off. Any of the plug is wet, that's where the leaking injector at. It is best to replace all since you have to do the same amount of work any way.
If you have the time, have the injectors clean and balance by Curzperformance. It is much cheaper than buying new. If you are buying new GM, buy the new injector type (Lucas brand I believed). On 88 Vette, mine at least, the injectors were Boshes (sp). Lucas injector does not have the pintle type nozzle which may last longer?
This can be a DIY job. Remember to buy new o-rings for the fuel rail.
I'm having a hard starting problem on my '89 but under the opposite conditions. In the past I only had a problem when the car sat for a few days. Now if the car sits over night or for several hours I usually have to crank several times before it starts.
I have previously replaced both MAF relays, which I understand can cause this problem (relay does not activate MAF wire burn-off), for another reason. So I think I can rule that out. Since this has progressively gotten worse, does that point to injectors? Or are there other components that could deteriorate over time like coil, MAF, etc. that could lead to this problem. It does have a fairly new tune up with fresh spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor on about 80K miles.
Hello vqt88vette, What do you think about the ford svo injectors that some people use?
I heard people uses the Ford SVO injectors without any problem. You might need to install an adjustable fuel regulator to optimize your engine performance. The Ford injector cost ~$200 set of eight injectors two years ago and the GM cost ~$80-$90 each :eek: .
It sounds like your fuel pump relay has gone out. You should be able to hear the electric fuel pump run when you turn the key from the off position to the run position. It should run for 3-5 seconds then shut off.
After the car starts and oil pressure builds, the fuel pump is then powered through the oil pressure switch. Your long cranking probably builds oil pressure after a little while which powers your fuel pump and your car finally starts. Check that relay fuel pump relay. :D
Sounds like the best way to get these 15 yr. plus cars to run at optimum is pretty much rebuild the fuel system: pump, injectors,filter, etc. I don't mind having to spend some$$, I'd rather get it all done at once and have it reliable for a while. Anyone had a fuel system completely re-done by a shop? what was the cost?
It sounds like your fuel pump relay has gone out. You should be able to hear the electric fuel pump run when you turn the key from the off position to the run position. It should run for 3-5 seconds then shut off.
After the car starts and oil pressure builds, the fuel pump is then powered through the oil pressure switch. Your long cranking probably builds oil pressure after a little while which powers your fuel pump and your car finally starts. Check that relay fuel pump relay. :D
Just had to resurrect this thread to publicly thank best_vette_yet who nailed it! :smash: Sure enough, new fuel pump relay equals end to hard starting problems :D :cheers:
I help a lot of people, most don't even reply back after I take the time to e-mail wireing diagrams or trouble shooting trees that they can follow. If you ever need anything else just e-mail me.
Hi Randy--My 89 has the exact problem. Can you tell me where the part is located on car? Also, cost of part from dealer would be appreciated if known. Thanks in advance!!! :cheers: :thumbs:
If you were sitting in the drivers seat the relay is just to the right of the Brake Booster and Master Cyl in the engine compartment. I don't know the cost. ;)
Well, it turns out that the relay replacement just masked the real problem which was the fuel pump (or connection at the pump). After a number of instantaneous starts it simply died a couple of days later, no fuel pressure...zero...none...nada. I managed to get the pump running long enough to get it into the garage by whacking on the filler. Since it's got a number of miles on it and I have to pull the pump assembly anyway, I'll be installing the Racetronix kit.
BTW, concerning the cost of the relay, I got mine at a local auto parts for around $12-13.