When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, the bearings are shot on the '84, any advice on replacement? It looks like the u-joints are fine, but I'm wondering if I should replace them now anyway. Do I really need to take everything apart as per the Helms, or can I just remove the brakes, then the hub? Thanks for any advice! :smash:
heres my 2 cents!! I got my rear hubs at pep boys for $149 each plus life time warranty!! I took them to my chevy dealer and had them install them cost me about 125 bucks for both to be installed. I would replace your u joints too!! JAY Also i have an 85 i think they should be the same!!!
Almost always when a wheel bearing goes it takes the outter u-joint with it. Not all the time, but mostly. :) I also buy mine at Pepboys, but install them myself.
Scorp, I was just reviewing your u-joint replacement article, do I need to do all that to get out the wheel bearing, and what type of u-joints do you recommend, I know you've said a million times, but I forgot. Thanks.
You can get the wheel bearing out without removing the halfshaft. It isn't as easy, but it can be done. :yesnod: I use Spicer cold forged u-joints. You will need a 36mm socket and a torque wrench capable of 200 ft/lb for installation.
You do NOT have to dynamite the whole rear suspension to change the rear wheel bearings. It wasn't easy, but I was able to get the three, T55 headed torx, bolts out by using a 3", 1/2" drive extension on an air impact wrench. With the impact laying on or next to the half shaft, there was just enough flex in the couplings (impact to extension and extension to socket) to reach and engage the three bolts. I used a lot of cuss words, and the socket was difficult to engage into the bolt, but I think I saved a bunch of time. This MIGHT work with a breaker bar, too. By the way...MY Helms says it's a T50 head torx bolt. Don't believe it. Good luck, and...
Scorp, where did you get the u-joints, wasn't it speed demon, and how much are they, how long do they take to get? Thanks, I'll probably just do it all at once. :smash:
I just did mine today...Do yourself the favor of changing the U-joints...your car is almost 20 years old, and I'm willing to bet those U-joints are, too. That's a lot of years with a lot of abuse.
I got all four bearings at Manny, Moe, and Jack's for a hair under $600 with a lifetime warranty. I couldn't purchase the Spicer U-joints locally, and I wasn't about to use Puke Force, so I got the Precision ultra-duty 4WD joints for about $30/ea. Scorp's thread with the pictures is excellent help!! Also, the GM factory manual incorrectly tells you that the three torx bolts are T45....they're T55.
I'm doing my rear bearings right now, leaving the 1/2 shafts in.
the only problem I have is tourqing the 3 bolts down to 66ftlbs.
I can't get the torque wrench in there, nor is there room to swing it. any hints here would be appreaciated!!
tomorrow I'm going buy a 3/8 torque wrench and see if the smaller TW works.... I torqued the spindle nut to 180 ftlbs no problem.
I used a 3/8ths. Works great!
According to my GM factory manual, the spindle nut is only supposed to be torqued to 81 lbs./ft. The cam bolt on the support rod is torqued to 180 lbs./ft. I already found one misprint doing this job; I hope this isn't another!!!
I have an '84 with 87k miles...I've replaced all the bearings.....so thats what you should do to get it running right.......been there done that....
tony
'84 redoooooooooo
:cheers:
SApeed demon didn't have the u-joints in stock, so they sent me to toms differentials in CA, they were great. I have the bearings in, and u-joints on the half-shafts, I will try to button thigs up tomorrow, and see how it all works. Thanks for the help guys, bye the way, mine has 152,000 on it, and is basically stock so far!!!!