I'd like to put a new set in my stock 88, how difficult is it? any tips , instructions available etc?


Thanks.

 

If you are mechanically inclined - is is very simple. make sure that you have the rubber o-rings for the crossover fuel tubes.

 

:iagree:
Also, be sure to put some oil on the O rings to prevent them from leaking.

 

Another tip that I use is to take Pics pics and more pics. Before all angles, during and after uninstalll. Many times I have gone back to the computer to look at pics to see where a part or connection belongs.

I did this before and during my engine rebuild and with 4 months between pulling engine vs install they saved my but many times.

Just take your time.

 

Go to this link, this is the instructions i followed and it went fine. Very easy. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=500184.

 

One thing I will point out is that the above procedure is for an LT-1 which doesn't have the same plenum and runners. I have done this job twice now (coincidentally I finished the 2nd install last night) and I wouldn't tell you that this job is that easy. You will be tearing down the top of your motor right down to the bare intake pretty much, and on an L98 that is not a job that you can expect to accomplish in two hours or so unless you are really good and have done it many times. I don't want you to have an expectation that it will be easy and then get frustrated during the job.

There are a few things I learned the second time around that made the job much easier. Since it is fresh in my mind, I'll share them with you.

1. The driver side runner is a nightmare to remove because two of the torx bolts in the back near the firewall that are almost impossible to get at. You can leave this runner and all of its bolts in place if you remove the EGR once you get the plenum off. Certainly seems to me the easier way to go.

2. The fuel rail can be taken off of the car in two halves - again this makes it possible to leave the D/S runner in place. Just remove the torx bolts holding the clamps over the cross tubes on one side of the fuel rail.

3. when reinstalling the fuel rail, install the driver side rail first and hook up your cold start injector. Don't install the fuel rail bolts just yet.

4. next, reinstall your EGR with a new gasket. Then, begin installing the pass side fuel rail by reconnecting the fuel lines first. Then attach the cross tubes and put the fuel rail together on the engine. You can bolt down the fuel rail, but leave the pass side loose or you won't be able to get the runner under it.

5. Reinstall your vaccum lines, then the pass side runner (loosely) and plenum. Hook up your power brake booster hard metal line before bolting the plenum to the runners. Don't forget to hook up the MAT sensor under the plenum.

6. tighten up the runner bolts making sure that everything is lined up and not binding as you tighten it. Don't forget that the two long torx bolts go at the bottom of the runner, it is hard to see the holes because they are so low.

A few more things: you should run your car almost out of gas before you start this procedure because the fuel will want to siphon out of the line once it is disconnected if there is too much fuel in the tank. You have to have a pretty good fitting plug to stop the flow of fuel otherwise.

You might want to replace the runner gaskets. You will definitely want to replace the fuel rail O-rings, GM sells a kit for the L98 fuel rail that includes all of the o-rings for the fuel rail and new crossover tubes and brackets. Not really cheap but not great peace of mind knowing that all of those little brittle O-rings are holding back 40+pounds of fuel pressure (and the cross tubes tend to rust inside so its good to replace those as well). The part number (since I still have the box around) is #17113252. Put a little WD-40 on the O-rings before you push the parts together, that will help keep the o-ring from tearing as it goes into compression.

If you take your time you should have no problem. It is one of those jobs that you need to execute in a particular order or you won't be able to get things to come apart or go back together right. Good luck!


[Modified by vetracer, 12:30 AM 5/8/2003]

 

CENTURION,

Take vetracer's advice. Buy the o-ring kit and plenum gaskets. Your 88 is VERY different from an LT-1. If you take your time and have everything together in advance it will take from a few hours to two whole afternoons, but it will REALLY be worth it. It isn't that bad as long as your be sure to mark where every bolt/screw goes as you take them off. I use a piece of cardboard and a marker to record where each bolt came from. Push the bolt through the cardborad and draw a diagram or write the location down.

Disconnecting the cold start injector (85-88 only) can be a major pain if you don't have the right tools. I bought a set of flare wrenches at NAPA for removing the main fuel line connections and the cold start injector fuel line connection. My (cheap) 3 wrench set is from Evercraft and has 7/16 - 3/8, 9/16 - 1/2, 5/8 - 11/16. Really made the work a lot easier. Cost about $15 and can be used when replacing the fuel filter too.

I also purchased an 8" long Torx T40 extension bit from Mac tools. It is an 8" long T40 bit in a 3/8" drive socket. Made the lower and inside plenum runner bolt removal significantly easier. The Mac tool salesman had the a used 8" one for $12, but anything 6" or more is fine. Snap-on and other tool vendors sell a similar bit.

Get a telescoping pickup magnet tool and mirror set. $2 just about anywhere. You most likely will drop a plenum bolt into a spot where fingers will not go. The magnet will save you a lot of time.

If you get the plenum off and the EGR looks like it needs replacing, get one from a Chevy Dealer (or order one in advance from Chris at Superior Chevrolet). I checked at every auto place in town and no after market EGR is exactly like the 88 GM version. The vacuum line connection is slightly different and usually requires a fitting to step-up/step-down to the original vacuum line fittings. Not a big deal, but the GM version should be a 2 minute, no-mod, no-brainer perfect fit swap.

If you finish in a couple of hours you didn't clean enough. If it takes you 4 - 8 hours total you should have all new injectors, o-rings, gaskets, and the whole top end should be clean and shiney too.

Always have a fire extinguisher readily available when working with fuel lines. Have 8 clean handkerchief sized rags or paper towels ready to stuff in the injector openings in the intake manifold as soon as the injectors are removed so that no small parts drop in unnoticed and ruin your day.

When done take the car to a nice smooth piece of highway and marvel at your own handiwork. If your old injectors were leaking or clogging or just getting tired, the new ones will really make it so much smoother and more responsive. :cheers:

 

One thing worth mentioning, I did this on my 88 and it was a major pain in the , well, it took more time than I had anticipated.

Keep good notes on what plugs into where or make sure the reference in the manual is clear. Also, keep track of which bolt go where in the plenium. They are different lenghts, some just a bit longer than others.

The torx 40 socket is the trick. I purchased several of varying lenghs until I found the right combination to get at all the torx bolts. Took me a couple of days but I was working alone and taking my time to clean. A clean motor is much more impressive and runs faster (???).

Also, get some paint to match the original. Now is the time to make the upper end look new.

I also removed the valve covers, blasted and painted them. Engine compartment just needs detailing I'll be finished back to impressive!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck and have fun.

billyjack
:flag

 

Those are great points, Mike. I have the Torx extension bit you are talking about, too and it does make thing easier. You are right about the EGR, buy the GM. When I tore mine down the 2nd time I noticed it wasn't even connected because the first time I never even noticed the fitting size wasn't the same on the non-OEM and it just fell off, creating a HUGE vaccuum leak!

To add to your point about plugging the injector holes, I also used a shop vac to get all of the loose sand, dirt and crud off the top of the intake so that it wouldn't fall down the injector holes :smash:

 

Thanks for all the replies, sounds like this job is beyond my comfort zone, I've worked with a lot of car and motorcycle carbs,but this seems quite a bit more complex. There's a couple of good Vette shops in my area, but it's probably going to be pricey.


Thanks.