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OK here's the deal. I have just had headers put on the car. It goes great but I am now storing error code 13 which from my reading I was pretty much expecting. The O2 sensor is new, so that is not the problem. The SES light isn't on all the time. The coolant temp is between 180 and 190. I am assuming that I am getting the code because the O2 sensor is not staying hot enough. I have checked the connection, is OK. I had no error codes before putting on the headers. The AIR pump has been removed but the EGR setup remains.
My question is: If the O2 sensor is not staying hot enough, how do I get round it to stop logging error codes? I beleive that the engine will jump to open loop if the O2 sensor is not sending enough voltage?
I read somewhere that I can use a heated O2 sensor to solve the problem, but the guy at the Dyno tuners say that I can't as they work on a different setup.
Any help from someone who has put headers on their car and had to solve this problem would be most appreciated. :confused:
Sounds like it's time to go back over your wiring...if the O2 sensor is not getting hot enough it goes to open loop-doesn't set a code, simply drops into open loop. So recheck the wires...
Also you CAN convert to a heated O2 sensor (recommended with long tubes), check out the tech articles for part #'s etc.
It sounds like you need the 3-wire heated O2 sensor. I have ceramic coated LT headers on my IROC and run a standard O2 sensor with no problem but sometimes a heated unit is necessary.
The guy was wrong. All you need do is to connect the ground wire to a ground point and the power wire to a switched +12Vdc source, like the fan relay power line. The sensor signal wire connects up as per the stock unit.
Code 13 is no signal from the O2 when all conditions for closed loop operation are met; generally it's an open in the wire. Since yours is intermittent, suspect the connector. Changing to a heated O2, without fixing whatever is causing it to lose the signal probably won't get rid of the code.
Code 13 is no signal from the O2 when all conditions for closed loop operation are met; generally it's an open in the wire. Since yours is intermittent, suspect the connector. Changing to a heated O2, without fixing whatever is causing it to lose the signal probably won't get rid of the code.
I agree with this and I have checked the connection. When I picked up the car I got code 44 as well (O2 lean) so by getting the sensor to work will probably get rid of code 13 but give me 44 if the sensor doesn't get hot enough.
My brain is working this morning. Here's a thought. Does the O2 sensor vary the voltage by the amount it sends to ground? The same as a temp sensor. If so, could it be that with new headers being painted, new gaskets and an exhaust system that doesn't touch the chassis that the is no grounding through the exhaust?
It's just a thought, but could it be that simple?