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Not for the C-4. camaro they do. I WISH some one would !
I have a B&M megashifter in my Montecarlo SS and it is great.
Their is a form member with one, but it doesn't fit without mods. The handle is a little long. 65Z01 has moded a stock one I believe. (somewhat)
If you find somethin let everyone know. Please........
I looked around and couldn't find one. I've seen one in a C4, but it just didn't look right. It would be great to have a ratchet shifter for the C4, call, e-mail and write B&M and Hurst, maybe if enough people contact them they'll see that there is a demand !
I thought about putting a B&M Pro Stick in mine, and still use the shifter boot also. The only problem that I see would be is getting to the lever to disengage the lock out so you can go into park. This is due to the the shifter boot would cover the lever. You could completely remove it, but I would try to figure a way to leave it on. You would also have to buy a 4spd shift gate instead of the 3spd that they come with.
the camaro shifter can be shoehorned into our cars but you need to be creative to make it look good. I have actually modified my shifter to have a 1-2 gate so i can shift it hard without worrying about going into 3rd. All that's neccessary is to cut a piece off the stock gate with a dremel. And if you can weld, you can make a gate for the 2-3 shift as well.
Can you shoot me some instructions or pictures or something....
I will have to search around also....I remember someone showing an instruction on how to do that....I think it was on the thirdgen though...is that what you used?
Thanks Ralph....that would be a great tech tip! :cheers:
See if you can e mail 65z01. I think He did something with the gates to make it more user friendly and prevent accidental up-shifting. I did that with mine once(leaving mind in "D" only shifts at 4400 punched) I went from 1-3 but pulled it quickly back to 2 and still did a 12.2@117 :D
Okay all you guys that said it doesn't look right.
It sure does work great tho. I have a manual valve body th400 with a Gear Vendors after that so I have to have a ratchet shifter. This one is the B&M Megashifter that is made for the '82-92 F body. It took me a bit of work to get it in, some cutting of the console plate and such. The rubber boot doesn't fit. I showed it to a guy that does custom hot rod interior and he said it would be very easy for him to make me a nice black leather boot for it. Just havn't gotten around to having him do it yet. In the picture it may look like it is a bit high but after driving with this for 2 years I can attest that it is in a perfect position for shifting. I do autocrosses and lapping on the road coarse. So, I do a lot of shifting. It is not too high and works perfectly at this height. If I could get it in then anybody can. I have since taken the cheap rubber boot off and just drive with the thing exposed. It looks really mean like that. Many people look at it with wonder. I just tell them that it is for racing only and not even legal to drive on the street. That gets em, hahaha.
Yeah I would love to see some pictures of the other one.
Also how much of the console did you have to remove? If any.
I really would like to have something that looks relatively stock, but doesn't have to as long as it looks nice. I would imagine that a leather shop could make a boot that would mount on the concole like the original, then come up just higher/wider for the shifter.
I had to cut out the opening in the plastic console to allow the shifter to fit up through it. The shifter comes with a nice black aluminum plate that houses the gear indicator on the left side of the shifter. This plate then screws down to the plastic console. You can kind of see it in my picture.
Jay is right, I bought a used A4 shifter and cut steps into the shift gate to give some shift feel on up shifts and prevent accicental down shifts. There are some sketches & pics on my site. The job was done with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel and a little finish filing, but beware that the shift gate is very hard steel and takes a little time to "machine" with simple tools.
I noticed that the shifter in my IROC-Z clicks on up shifts and can't be down shifted without pressing the button. This is because there are steps in the IROC-Z shift gate, unlike the C4 stock shift gate that is smooth from 1st through 4th gear.
Since I wanted a totally stock look with improved shift feel I modded the shift gate in my Vette's A4.
The result is close to what I wanted but I haven't worked out all the details:
-the button must be depressed to down shift...except from 4th to 3rd (needs a little work yet)
-on an up shift there is an audible "click" and a "feel" in the shifter, but no lockout.
-because the plunger now rises higher, sometimes the button pops up in the shifter ****
Though the result isn't exactly perfected it is quite easy to go down the 1/4mi with confidence that I will not over shoot 2nd on an up shift. And on the highway I am confident that I won't accidently down shift into too low a gear.
AWESOME! Thanks a millon, I haven't looked at the site yet, but what you descibe is what I think I remember looking at a while ago on the forum and wanting to do now! Thanks a million!
Jesse
And thanks JD for the contact! I owe you guys both a :cheers:
EDIT: Yep that is the site I remeber seeing awhile ago and the one I was looking for! You should submit it to the tech section for a Tech tip! TAlot of people will like to do this mod I bet. At least any racer will!
Does the botton pop from the snapping to the next level? If so put some hot glue or even RTV on the metal tabs that slide over the shifter lever to keep it in place a little better, but something that is not impossible to remove is necessary. I would think either of them would offer enough resistance to keep it in place.
I think the button pops because the lever rides at different heights with the cut steps, though it realy isn't noticible up top. And of course the lever & button "pops" on each upshift as it traverses to the next step.
I was thinking of drilling a notch into each side of the lever and punching matching divits into the sides of the button retainer springs. That should be enough to keep her in place and still allow for removal when necessary.
ahhhhh, but why would it come up any higher than it does already, when OD/N are the highest points, as they are now. I'm a mech engineer and sometimes my mechanics fails me :)
I can see the popping action going to the next step ie 1 to 2nd making it want to bounce up. Maybe I will see what you mean when I take a closer look. At any rate I will put up with/come up with some revision that clears up the problem :cheers: